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About JCloughie

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  • Birthday 18/02/1948

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  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    Caravaning, NT, English Heritage.
  • Towcar
    Volvo V70 D3 SE
  • Caravan
    Lunar Clubman SI 2015

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  1. I used to tow with one of these: An Izusu Piazza. 2 lite turbo petrol. Rear wheel drive with a small rear overhang. It looked stupid towing with a sort of sports car. But it was great. I would think yours would be fine. Plenty of power, just try to keep weight below 100% John
  2. Depends on the small print. Usually it only covers vehicle associated events. I never bother as I have it through an organisation I belong to and see no point in getting it twice. John
  3. From my admittedly little knowledge on this subject I would guess that if the car alternator was set up to charge a wet battery and an AGM required a higher voltage. If an AGM was used in the caravan then, with the voltage drop as well. The caravan battery will be getting little or nothing. Unless a voltage converter was utilised. My situation is a little different. Tow car has one AGM starter battery plus a smaller AGM for reasons I don’t understand. So perhaps, if the car charges at a higher voltage than it would for a wet battery, it may be at a more acceptable voltage by the time it reached the caravan wet battery. I haven’t tested anything but it all seems to work well. Another thought for the OP. Is an AGM wise for the caravan if, when on hook up, the vans charger is balanced for a wet battery? John
  4. That is a very big discrepancy. I have never measured the temp at different levels but l have never found the problems that you are suffering. In fact I find the thermal circulation with the Alde in the Lunar works well. But it does require the front benches to not be over packed to allow air movement. What we find in very cold weather, is the floor is very cold. That’s not the fault of the heating. A few years ago, Durbanite, suggested under carpet heating. I got one just for the front area. Really fantastic. https://www.bewarmer.co.uk/rugbuddy-under-rug-heating/ Only 80 watts but we find it gets a bit too hot so I have included a thermostat. John
  5. Indeed, and you make very good points. It would be personal preference I think. But my own preference is in the living area as this is where I want it to be most consistent. In houses lots recommend fitting a room stat in the hall, in this way if the front door is opened it activates the heating. In many houses this leads to overheating in the lounge. For this reason I always fitted mine in the lounge. Same principle with the Alde. Domestic properties progressed to TRV’s and now there are digital valves connected to the internet. The system I now have. Alde go a little in this direction in that two extra room sensors can be fitted and you can switch between them. That’s OTT for me. Yes fitting towards the front under the cupboards and away from direct sunlight can possibly be affected by body heat, but, in my opinion, less so than when fitted by the door where it may be affected by drafts and door movements. Fitting the remote sensor has not made a big difference, but it is noticeable. John
  6. This is nothing to do with the offset. But I can confirm from experience, that placing the stats sensor in a more logical position avoids some yo-yoing of the temperature and it is therefor more comfortable. John
  7. I purchased the remote sensor. It was tricky to pass the wire down the triangular trunking below the cupboards and the 1.5 metres is not quite enough to reach the centre below the front cupboards. But now it’s done the temperature becomes more accurate. John
  8. Richardsndros. I completely agree and recognise all your points. I would also add that the flush has a knuckle bend that people often say fails. Mines had the knuckle bend, new control unit, followed by a whole new toilet replaced. I regularly have to strip it down, clean and lubricate. John
  9. Thanks for the clear answer. Might be useful in the future. John
  10. My dealer said they had had many requests to do this but had to turn them down because the outer door and/filler would not line up. Perhaps the were wrong and therefore lost some business. Or perhaps your dealer found a way around the problem. —————— I agree with the OP in principle but clearly the design is not problematic. A drain hole or bung at the bottom of the compartment would aid cleaning. And would be useful if there was a leak. John
  11. The first link has changed overnight. I looked at the Pro and the Max. And could find no specs, so as far as I can see the only advantage of the max is the longer tube. I also found this, (the same as the top link now points to). This review looks good, (move to 6 mins in). Now on special Black Friday offer. I may go for it, not actually recommending, but if it is anywhere near as good as the reviews it’s worth a punt. Handy size for car and van. John John
  12. If you want to leave it to the spring I would use your dehumidifier and then cover with a tarp. But try not to make it too air tight. Air getting in underneath will help to dry it. The tarp could be opened on the odd dry day and open a door and/or window to get as much drying air in as possible. John
  13. I can’t think why the toilet is behaving that way, makes no real sense to me. Best to make sure the drain is running freely. Unlikely to be a blocked vent pipe as that would be 100mm. But if your toilet is vented by a McAlpine air admittance valve, perhaps this is malfunctioning. see here. However, the water you drain out of the shower trap is there to form a seal. Emptying the water will allow drainage smells into the shower as well as the sound from the flushing toilet. John
  14. And who isn’t believing you!!!? Both myself and Val made it very clear that we went years ago. John
  15. I wasn’t disbelieving you Andy, that’s why I made it clear we went a long time ago. In fact we could park in the car park at the front. John
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