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Woodentop

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Everything posted by Woodentop

  1. I know that when I had the tyres changed and balanced on our last van - a Pegasus 462 - the difference was really noticeable, smooth, quieter, and more stable.
  2. I am puzzled how the Victron can provide a controlled charge <and> act as a PSU simultaneously with only one output?
  3. Well yes and no. Yes it is a comprehensive and probably very effective smart battery charger, but caravans need either a power supply as you already have that will both float charge the battery and provide a large dump of current to power 12V items in the caravan as well, or they need a unit that provides independent dual function - battery charge and caravan power.
  4. I may have misread but I take it as meaning that the generator is providing 230V for the fridge? If so don't forget that the fridge is supplied through a standard 13A plug which may have a fuse in it that is blown. For other readers as well as the OP, if you don't have testing kit get item 95426 from Screwfix which comprises a 13A test/polarity plug, a useful digital multimeter, and a no-contact mains tester. The latter is just held near a mains cable or socket and it will light up and beep if mains is present. I would never be without one now.
  5. Silly question but the slide is fitted the right way round, isn't it?
  6. Blame my son - he started it all in this house!!
  7. Equally a Tesla in 'partial' auto mode (whatever that is) piled a Highway Patrol car in Orlando at about 04:30 on Monday morning (30th Aug.) The officer had stopped to assist a disabled driver so was not in the car and thankfully both were unhurt. Google it and you will see what a mess the Tesla made of the B&W! Tesla have 'declined to comment' it seems.
  8. Do a bit of Googling about new EU 2019/2044 regs (which were promulgated in 2019 so the UK agreed to comply with them as it was pre Brexit) about requirements for new vehicles that come into effect on 6th July next year (so its not an April fool, OK?) and apply to all cars from 2024. The EU will require all new vehicles to be fitted with:- A speed assistance system that uses GPS and/or speed restriction sign cameras that force you not to exceed the speed limit by reducing the available engine power At a later date a black box that will track everywhere you go, how you drive, the speed you travel at, and how you use the throttle and brake BUT you will not have access to its contents (GDPR anyone?) An autonomous emergency braking system - so if a hare or dog trots across the motorway you have an instant pile-up? A system to ensure the driver is not falling asleep A system to make sure the vehicle stays in lane The facility for an alcohol test system to ensure the driver is not over the limit plus a number of other tweaks aimed at cutting cyclist deaths/injuries. This is expected (er, hoped?) to reduce accidents by 30% and road deaths by 20%. Given that most UK road deaths are caused by pedestrians walking out into the road without looking, I wonder how they came up with that figure? There are well over 100,000 road deaths across Europe per year but road deaths in the UK caused by vehicles (as distinct from inattentive pedestrians) are at figures only in the 100's. PSA have already announced that all vehicles that come under its control (Peugeot, Citroen, Volvo, Vauxhall/Opel etc) will ALL be limited to 112mph )180Kph - I wonder how that will affect sales especially their home market? The regs are applicable to call cars, vans, small commercial vehicles, and buses/coaches. For the moment motor cycles are being sidelined. Time to get the vintage motor out anyone?
  9. Don't bother. Thinner cable does not have such effective screening - which may cause picture pixelation - and it has greater signal loss so you may suffer that way as well. Toddle along to Screwfix or Toolstation and get yourself 25m of ?F100 cable, such as WF100, and necessary connectors. I would suggest bags each of 10 TV plugs, 10 F-type plugs, and 10 F-type barrel (i.e. back-to-back socket) connectors. A bag of 10 of each will cost you less than a pack of two of the same from a DIY shed. Using F-type connectors make up two cables, one 10m and the other 15m so you can use the shortest possible or connect them together in series if you need the length. Also since CMC still insist on using TV plugs and some caravan manufacturers still use TV plugs for outside connections you will need to make up whatever you need in terms of a short cable with a TV plug on one end and a F-type plug on the other. As the connectors are not waterproof it is a good idea to have some disposable rubber gloves to hand so that you can cut off the fingers and use them to prevent weather-related water ingress to any exposed connections. If your caravan has a F-type external socket the cable on that will either be presented as a F-type socket on the TV connection (i.e. intended to feed a satellite receiver) or as a cable presented at the side of the caravan aerial amp. If the former then make up a cable with an F-plug on one end and a TV plug on the other to connect your TV, then when you connect the pillar cable outside the signal will go directly to the TV. If the external cable is presented near the amp, disconnect the cable on the amp output that feeds the TV and connect it directly to the cable from outside. Essentially you are doing the same as the first description but using a different cable routing. DO NOT whatever happens run the external signal through the aerial amp is the incoming signal will overload it - pillar feeds are usually at quite high levels to overcome the 25m cable loss. To clarify, WF100 cable and the like is suitable for use on either FM or DAB radio, and on terrestrial TV and satellite, whereas the older (and used to be more flexible types) are not. It also has a foil screen in addition to the usual braid which stops the cable picking up strong local signals. There is masses of info on line that shows you how to make up F-type and standard TV plug connections (TV plugs do not need to be soldered.) All you will need is a sharp knife (Stanley?) and a pair of small sharp (i.e. electronics) wire cutters.
  10. Thanks for that SDA. That route is about 75 miles whereas the alternative (via A3/M25) is a minimum 121 miles and most at 132 miles!
  11. We are in the same sort of boat with a 2017-model S4 Seville. We use the beds as two singles (saves disturbing the other for that natural call during the night!) and on the third time of using I turned over during the night and the bed collapsed. There was nothing other than a short screw that held the outside head end of the bed - no supports, no legs, just one screw into the wall. The main reason was the presence of the (too large) tray for footwear etc from the outside locker access stopped 'legs' being fitted - they were fitted on the offside where SWMBO sleeps but not on mine. Took it back to the dealer and Bailey told them to come up with an answer and let them know so they would have an answer in the future!!! The repair worked perfectly. On collection the bottom of the bathroom door on the lock side was about 1cm out of true (bending outwards.) I pointed this out and the dealer fetched the door from their demo - and that was even WORSE!! And so it goes on, but we managed to get everything sorted during warranty - bar that is having to pay for uprated sprung seat cushions as the original foam units collapsed where you sit, both the originals and the replacement!. Lets face it in a two berth you do tend to sit in the same place, don't you?
  12. Would love to do that route for the views, but doesn't it take me up some steep hills over the Downs - which I was trying to avoid?
  13. To the OP: if you have had the trap etc assembly out of the tank it is a good idea when reassembling it to wipe some olive oil on <ALL> the rubbers especially the concertina ring that makes the trap seal. Don't use cooking OO, go to your local pharmacy and buy a small bottle of the pharmaceutical variety - its only a couple of quid and it will ensure the seals stay soft and supple for ages.
  14. The problem with the fuse blowing is what you are plugging into it - my S-in-L suffered the same issue. If you look carefully into the socket with a torch you may find that the positive contact in the centre has a contact bar underneath it which goes out to the sides and then turns 90deg towards you. The negative is the inside of the insertion hole. If your charger plug has long negative sidearms it is possible for said sidearms to simultaneously make contact with the hole (negative) and the bent up sides of the positive connector and blow the fuse. It happens regularly because most people always insert the 12V plug the same way round - if it is a USB adapter that means so that the USB socket is horizontal. Turn the plug 90deg either way (USB now vertical) and it should not blow the fuse. Alternatively get a different adapter or plug that only has short negative side arms. This is the long sidearms type https://tinyurl.com/3jzyajre and this is the small type https://tinyurl.com/zd69catj Also note that the long sidearms type above usually has a fuse in the centre contact, accessed by unscrewing the centre contact.
  15. Tnx for the quick reply, but that route doesn't make sense, specifically how to get from the A31 to the A33?
  16. I am just a happy northerner, so I would be grateful for some route help from persons darn sarf. In a few weeks time we will be travelling from Rowan Park CMC site at Bornor Regis to CMC Four Oaks at Henley on Thames - wherever that is! Via Michelin shows two cross country routes that seem to need to go over the Downs, or a third route via A3/M25/M40 which is only about 10 miles longer. Can any residents in that sort of area - or anyone that has done a similar route - give me (polite) opinions which is the best route please? As it says below Passat Estate 2L TDi 150 towing Unicorn S4 Seville. TIA
  17. As LitW says but clarified, if your 12V lighting works with the mains on but doesn't with the mains off then the battery fuse has failed. This is between the battery and the power box, usually buried near or where the cables enter the power box. One assumes that all of your MCBs and RCD are on? A way of testing whether mains is working or not, press the test button on the RCD. If it trips mains is on and working, if it doesn't you have no mains. Per accessing the power box, it can be fiddly. As LitW says disconnect the EHU cable before starting, and ideally also disconnect the battery negative. To get into the power box you need to remove the four screws in the recess on the front of the power box. Ideally it should then just pull off forwards but in my experience it will foul the container (bed box?) in which it sits. If that happens you will have to release the backboard on which the power box is mounted. There will be two small brass screws on the back on one side holding it against the bedbox, and usually one vertically on the back of the board at the other end screwed into the floor. Remove these and the board will hinge back and the power box front panel can be removed. The PSU (just a power supply, not a controlled charger) is the metal box in the top of the power box with a kettle lead in the side. This is the plug referenced in the original query. The 12V output will be two wires into a white non-reversible mount coming out of one end on the box. The PSU just pulls out of the power box housing once you have disconnected mains input and 12V output and you can test it on your workbench, assuming of course you have a voltmeter? Work through logically and you will find the fault. If the PSU has failed it usually can be repaired if you know someone who knows what they are doing (even talk to Apuljack who may also repair it) otherwise buy a replacement. If you don't have test kit I suggest you (and any other readers) buy Screwfix 95426 which is a contactless mains tester, a DVM, and a 13A polarity tester plug. Makes life in these sort of situations so much easier.
  18. Just a note: on a Calor cylinder the tare (i.e. empty) weight is stamped on an aluminium collar around the valve <in pounds and ounces.> If you are using, for instance, a Flo-Gas cylinder the tare weight will be printed in black on the neck of the cylinder in Kg and decimal Kg. I have a Calor which has 11 7 on the collar - that is 11lbs 7oz. Convert that would be about 6.7Kg. Add 3.9Kg of gas and you have a full weight 10.6Kg I also have a Flogas 6Kg that has 8 3 printed on the side which is 8.3Kg. Add 6Kg means a full cylinder is 14.3Kg. BUT weigh either when new from a supplier and you will usually find it anything up to 0.5Kg (or even more) light.
  19. IIRC there are two types, one has the amp in the base of the aerial and has a separate 12V feed, and the other is a passive aerial with an amplifier box near the aerial in a cupboard or wherever. Having said that you would do well to carry a 2m pole or the like to zip to the side of your jockey shaft and a small log-periodic aerial such as this on a longish cable to connect to the aerial amp rather than use the bee-sting whip. There are technical reasons why the bee-sting is not very effective on any site other than one that has a TV transmitter that is line-of-sight and they only lasted about a year before being replaced with one of Teleco manufacture following huge quantities of complaints. The alternative if you want to be certain to be able to watch TV is to get a satellite system. Despite what some people will tell you setting it up, once you are used to it, is quite straightforward and takes no more than 10-15 minutes. You will need a (lightweight) tripod on which to mount the dish, ideally a 60cm ovoid dish (i.e. NOT a Sky dish), maybe 10m or so of something like WF100 cable and connectors, a Freesat receiver, and a HDMI cable to connect it to your telly.* If you look around for second hand kit you should be able to get going for maybe £50 or so. (*You can get cable and connectors from Toolstation or Screwfix, a good place to look for the Freesat receiver** is Cash Converters where you will get a guarantee with it, and a dish and tripod is best found on eBay.) (**You can buy a Sky+HD box - better still the multi-room version as it is smaller and lighter) complete with mains lead and remote often for well under £20 and again a decent guarantee from Cash Converters.)
  20. There will be a charge controller inside one of the upper lockers where it can be switched off at best or disconnected at worst.
  21. Believe it or not that is a standard German WC pan. We have German friends and all three of theirs are like that!
  22. That additional protection would be when £100<amount paid<£30000
  23. You need to watch more carefully Andy. If the main road has priority there will be a sign like this before the junction: no such sign means the side road has priority. The other clue is to look ahead at the road markings at the end of the side road as you approach. If you have priority the line at the road end will be solid white: if you do not then it will be dotted. We used to have traffic lights with no amber on the way down - I remember them as a lad when we lived in Leicester. I do however <like> the way that at night traffic light intersections go to flashing amber in all directions and operate just like any other road junction. The REAL ANNOYANCE that gets me is drivers going round the outside of you as you negotiate a roundabout ignoring any road markings. The worst case is if you are on a T-junc island and are turning left so you go round the inside of the island and some irk comes round the outside and then there's a screech of brakes when he is surprised that you are heading for the same exit as him! As for Priorite a droit - what about the Place de L'Etoile aka the Arc de Triomphe in Paris where all the side roads have priorty and traffic lurches round from one line of studs to the next as each road joins. Only the French.... D'oh!!
  24. Sorry, brain fog. M40 to J15 and onto A46 Warwick by-pass. There is Warwick Services just north of J12.
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