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Steamdrivenandy

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Everything posted by Steamdrivenandy

  1. Rather like a fridge, a gas/mains electric boiler controls run off the 12V battery no matter which form of energy is being used. So, provided the battery is OK the boiler should run on gas and avoid tripping the EHU as it won't be using 240V.
  2. I can mirror that, in a way. I bought a Karoq SEL 1.5 DSG with 29k miles in June for £18,427 from a Skoda dealer. Same spec., same mileage cars are now £23,000 to £24,000 on Autotrader and there's a part exchange offer open at £19,700. Of course if I traded it in I'd have to pay the higher prices for the replacement, so it makes no sense to do so.
  3. I doubt that the site owners are at all concerned about your ownership arrangement, just as long as a member has paid and signed for the pitch. How that member or members use it after that is their affair.
  4. I don't doubt that the insulation of properties could do with improving but I'm not sure that the situation is as bad as some sources make out. This month's Which? magazine has an article of future home heating and quotes some stats. According to government figures, in 2019 36% of domestic properties were graded A to C on their EPC's and 57% D to G and it was government's aim to get as many as possible to 'C' or above by 2035. Leave aside whether 'as many as possible' is actually a target, I have serious doubts as to the accuracy of their percentages. Firstly EPC's are valid for 10 years, so in collating the position in 2019 they would have been looking at EPC's from 2009 onwards. I bet there are lots of those EPC's that have had at least some of the EPC recommendations acted upon and if the EPC was done again in, say, 2019 the properties would have moved up the scale. As examples we bought a house in 2009 that was categorised in a 2008 EPC as category 'E' and having 217 sq metres of floorspace. I knew that the house was nothing like 217 sq metres and in 2014 I contacted the assessors who offered to do another survey for free. That one came in at 146 sq metres, about right, and said it was category D. So in 6 years it had gone up one category. In the time between that 2014 reassessment and selling the house in 2020 we had a condensing boiler fitted and LED bulbs throughout and that would have just taken the house into category C, but as the 2014 EPC was still valid I didn't bother having another one done. The house we moved to in 2020 has an EPC dated 2015 for category D and it's only a couple of points off category C. The previous owners had TRV's fitted and we've gone all LED, so we would be just inside category C, but I won't have another EPC done until I have to. So our house is also showing as 'D' in the records but is 'C' in reality. I suspect there are a great many properties where this sort of thing has occurred and that in reality, especially two years on, instead of being 36% A to C it's probably much nearer 50%. And then there are the options suggested to improve matters. In our place they are: Floor insulation at a cost of £5,000 and a return of £68 a year. Solar water heating £5,000, return £37 per year (and it's in the curtilage of a listed building, so doubtful if you'd get planning). Solar photovoltaic £6500, return £267 On those figures I'd spend £16,500 and reduce my energy bill by £372 per year, a payback time of 45 years.
  5. I'm delighted that you're happier, but concerned that the OP could be towing illegally.
  6. The removal of the restrictions will certainly reduce the number of angst ridden posts about the weight limit on CT. I wonder if it will cause caravan makers to rethink their 'lightness is everything' policies and maybe start offering sensible payload instead of the bare minimum they can squeeze through the NCC's formula?
  7. As I posted there are literally hundreds of cars that meet the OP's requirements. When such questions are asked all that generally happens is people recommend what they use, which isn't v helpful. If his budget is £6k then its probably a good idea to use Autotrader and set it for £5.5k to £6.5k and other configurations like engine size, gearbox, age etc and see what comes up. Then investigate further as to towing limit.
  8. I really would suggest you get the pump out and flick the impeller. They often stick either from being dry for long periods or from solidified pink gunge. Just twiddling the impeller will get it zizzing away as normal.
  9. Modern absorption fridges require a 12V feed to power the controls, display and interior light, no matter which form of energy is being used. However the 12V to actually power the refrigeration element is on a separate circuit that goes to the tow vehicle alternator and will only power the fridge when the umbilical is connected and the engine running. When pitched the options are mains hook up or gas.
  10. You presumably have the 1.5 diesel with 1200kg towing limit. It's gross weight is 2250kg, which plus 1200kg of towing limit will presumably give a gross train limit of 3450kg. With 120PS that gives 120PS/3.45kg= 34.8PS per tonne which is low, industry recommendation is for at least 40PS per tonne. So it is underpowered and towing over the Ford's towing limit will only make matters worse. And you need to be aware that exceeding the GTW is an offence. In addition whilst you may start off with around 160kg payload, the battery and any motor mover fitted will eat about 50kg of that. So if you have those fitted and wish to stay at your car's towing limit you'll only have 40kg left for all the stuff loaded in the van. So, yes you need a stronger pulling car of which there are hundreds.
  11. I may have dreamed it but didn't the government say they were pulling further 'dumb' motorway development? What's needed now is a plan for moving the existing ones with no hard shoulder back to 'sensible' motorway. We'll probably have to whistle for that and count the coffins.
  12. I think what BJ was saying is that an unsecured removable towball is regarded as a mechanical malfunction, whilst an unintentional uncoupling /accidental uncoupling caused by the hitch not being secured correctly, leaving the towball in place is what the breakaway cable is meant to cope with.
  13. Unless the electrical system is very different on NZ Baileys, when pitched the fridge either runs on gas or on 240V mains hook up, not 12V. It's a common misconception. The 12V element is wired through to the tow vehicle's alternator, not to or via the leisure batteries so can only be used when connected to the tow vehicle with its engine running. This is because the fridge current draw is so high that it would flatten 12V batteries in short order.
  14. Surely a breakaway cable is meant to 'fail' in the sense that it's designed to break after it has applied the caravan brakes. If it doesn't break in the initial brake application it should break as the tow vehicle continues forward whilst the caravan stops. I guess that the only 'failed' breakaway cable is one that doesn't break when necessary, which is highly unlikely given the amount of force imposed. I can't see a caravan still dangling on the back of a tow vehicle, attached via the breakaway, after the hitch has separated, unless done at very, very low speed and very gingerly.
  15. On that subject, is there a map source that shows sections of motorway without hard shoulder? I know the M6 past us and up to Knutsford has been messed up that way and southbound as well but I don't know about the rest of the network.
  16. I particularly noticed it on a trip northbound on the M6 from Birmingham to Stoke, when we collected a caravan from a dealership, it was v uncomfortable. On the same trip, off the motorway, on a newish, dead straight mile section of the A531 that is rarely used by HGV's I ran the rig up to 60+ and it was smooth as silk. Since then I've repeated that journey many times, with a fully loaded van, and never felt the same waywardness.
  17. I'd agree, but I've found that is much worse if the caravan is unloaded and running light, with hardly any noseweight. Load it up and the issue seems to disappear.
  18. I believe I'm right in recalling the the Glass's guide for caravans and motorhomes are published quarterly rather than the monthly issue for cars. Whether the caravan price guide is online, like cars, where they can be altered at any time, I don't know. If they are published quarterly then they effectively anticipate and by doing so lead the market in a particular direction. So, if they feel that demand is going to blossom and that there'll be a shortage they'll lead pricing upwards and vice versa in opposite conditions. So if most dealers use their guidance, rather than responding to local supply and demand, then if Glass's say charge £2K more, momma charges £2k more. Maybe they should rename it the Pied Piper Guide.
  19. You may have done better by getting on the A34 then A50 which parallels the M6. It's a good wide road, presumably the forerunner of the motorway. I would guess that Holmes Chapel would be a bad bottleneck though and Knutsford too if traffic's diverting. Normally I'm always surprised how quiet it is for such a good size road.
  20. We can see the M6 across the fields about a mile east of SDA Towers. I try and avoid the new no hard shoulder sections if I can. To pick our son up from Salford Quays it's 1 hr 3 minutes over 52 miles using the motorways but 1hr 17 minutes and 42 miles on non-motorway roads. An extra quarter of an hour and 10 miles less is worth it for lower stress levels.
  21. It depends how you interpret that much used phrase. You better had know it's there to keep you aware and not slip into automatic solo driving mode with all the risks that entails. However the drive can be that smooth, without drama or strain that it is, as if, the van wasn't behind you. In my experience having a van that isn't teetering on the edge of the car's towing limit is the best way to ensure such an experience. I always try and ensure that the van weighs at least 200kg less than the towing limit and I also try and ensure that the car has at least 40PS per tonne of the overall rig. One other thought is that Simon indicates the 'jiggling' only occurs occasionally and maybe this is a road surface rather than car or van issue. The other thing to consider is that the XC60 is considered to be an excellent tow vehicle and doesn't have a bad reputation amongst caravanners, so changing it for another model may actually not improve the situation and maybe risk it being worse.
  22. A car with an 1800kg towing limit with a van weighing a max of 1635kg should be able to pull it easily. Things to consider: Driving style with a caravan - smooth and steady. Is the van loaded correctly both in weight and positioning. Is the drawbar damper operating properly?
  23. The appliances aren't standard domestic type and are designed and built by specialist leisure vehicle appliance companies, so should be able to stand caravan/motorhome usage. Again, we don't actually know for sure whether caravan makers operate a system as you describe or not. All or some may do or all may not. Those that have suffered faults and failures on their vans will be certain that no quality control is exercised at all, whilst the silent majority who don't suffer problems will be quietly confident that high standards are being met. My own experience of a product fault was of cracks developing from the corners of front windows in an aluminium skinned panel. That could be put down to being a design fault as I've heard of other vans by the same maker with similar problems. It was basically down to not enough strengthening structure around the window openings. A comprehensive testing process as would be undertaken by the car industry would probably have discovered this issue during development. But they'd be working on the vehicle for a few years before launch with masses of technology and staff involved, probably costing millions. Caravan makers just don't have the capital to indulge in such comprehensive programs and so owners become their proving ground. That in turn means that warranty work is expected, which maybe explains a more relaxed view towards it.
  24. I don't doubt that the larger caravan makers have the same sort of computer systems, but we don't know whether they actually use those systems in the way described or not. A lot of the issues are with parts and appliances supplied by third parties and the warranty claims go back direct to them, not to the caravan assembler. This saves duplication and cost but can mean that the assembler doesn't know there is an issue with, say, fridge shelving etc. The car industry can take months or even years to identify and address issues on the production line, so can hardly be held up as a paragon. The caravan industry should have it easier in that they're much, much smaller and should be more agile in addressing issues, but I suspect tend to be loathe to change things before the next model change or model year, unless it's safety related. The caravan building workforce tends to be far more transitory than the car industry's, with lower levels of pay, which doesn't help in attracting the best or in keeping them. It all comes down to cost and being competitive in a market where customers will buy from a dealership 200 miles away to save the odd hundred pounds.
  25. Glad to hear that it's working. Not sure why a loose pump would cause water leak under the van, unless you were pushing water into the internal tank when it was already full and the loose pump wasn't working and pushing water into the van's system. Presumably the internal tank has an overflow and that was where the water was coming from. As I said earlier it's best not to try and run both pumps together as it's hard to know if there are problems. in this case turning off the external pump once the internal tank was full and then turning on the internal pump would have indicated there was a problem with that system as water wasn't being pumped, it may have even been silent which is a real giveaway that the pump has problems. I did some research, there are threads on CT about Avondale water systems. You can use the search facility to find them Apparently you can run them with a pump putting water into the internal tank and then drawing the water off, as required, or not using the internal tank and using the water direct from the external source, like most caravans do.
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