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JTQ

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About JTQ

  • Rank
    Senior Member with over 5000 posts
  • Birthday 17/02/1943

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Hampshire
  • Interests
    Engineering, computing, outdoor life. cycling and walking
  • Towcar
    Disco4
  • Caravan
    Hymer

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  1. The second post rather answers the point made in the first; find a lower overhead cost operative and ditch the warranty, things could be different. It is not "the modern approach" as much as a reflection of the relative costs involved, these days overheads are higher the more so maintaining a franchised dealership, plus the added value of the warranty.
  2. I would explore if you can claim it on your insurance, it clearly is not the more common self mis-fuelling problem where you might be justifiably held to be "responsible", though even there I believe the better insurers cover that risk to an extent. Edit: your vehicle has been involved in a damaging incident, sometime picking up contaminated fuel even if the specifics of when are unknown. If insured by them from new, then it would be on "their watch", so helping your claim.
  3. I think you will find that the directive is likely to come from BMW UK rather than a profiteering dealer. The vehicle could well still have some part of a BMW warranty, and probably the workshop is obliged to warrant the work for a year or two? They are certainly not going to be taking a gamble they can clean it all effectively, unless they invest in the time and equipment needed to do so, therefore changing kit out might well be the cheapest route they can offer. Things could be very different with a jobbing garage without oversight from the maker, they could offer a cheaper option where any warranty is what they are prepared to offer. Hope here the HP pump is deemed safe to use.
  4. Sadly, I don't think the evidence is there to lay blame at the last refill. I however hope you can find something concrete. I had more than a little involvement professionally in investigating diesel fuel contamination, The occurrence of the issues with contamination, can as explained be due to picking up contamination way back, the passage of time itself is often involved in manifesting the problem, as is running low good at provoking its outcome.
  5. Going down to 18 miles on the range, implies that the tank itself was all but empty with what remains of fuel really doing a good job sloshing about and lifting the "bottoms" up into the draw off. Looked at that way, the contamination could have been picked up ages ago, the fuel filter coalescer then doing its job as intended, till overwhelmed with the final stirred up contents from the tank. Sadly, unless you can turn the clock back and have a direct sample from the station's tank in question, or the number of similar issues, identifying that station at the same time, come apparent, then I think you will get nowhere. Ensure the car's tank is very effectively flushed as part of the rectification.
  6. They are only sheet bridge pieces used to clamp the tube down, using "U" bolts. I would not fret around for long chasing up a source for the original items. I would fold up a pair from scrap galvanised steel sheet, reclaimed say from a fencing Arris rail repair plate or similar, ideally a bit thicker [doubled up?]. Or alternatively make a suitable pair of bridge pieces from some nominally 2" x 1" oak, stood 2" side vertical. If you want them black, a lick of Hammerite? I believe the "U" bolts are 6 M threaded, but I would up these to 8 M, using some 8 m studding with nuts replaced by the longer couplings.
  7. Absolutely understandable though, that anyone would avoid the issues that come as part and parcel of joining "Facebook", the bigger "pity" is that so much has migrated there IMO.
  8. At no time when "towing" should anything other than the fridge electronics, be "using the caravan battery". When coupling up the towing electrics, an on board device in the caravan shuts down the supplies taken from the van's battery, other than that powering of the fridge electronics, note not the refrigeration load just its control electronics.
  9. The Dometic 7651L of that vintage only has a single control knob for "temperature setting", with four LEDs Min to Max. The second , left, knob, sets the cooling source. Manual
  10. I am pretty confident the DOMETIC RM 7651 L actually has a single absorption circuit, Therefore, any lack of effectiveness between the freezer compartment and chiller section is not a fridge circuit issue but a failing of the compartments ability to stay cold. This might be the seal miss placed, or hardened, the unit opened a bit too frequently [better planning] or possibly given the age a failing in the insulating foam's structure or it getting damp? I don't share the view a domestic market one would suffer oil issues, as here the fridge is never going to be transported other than bolt upright, where any oil shakedown is going to be exactly to where you need it to drain to. To me, on the assumption a domestic one would actually fit, and my use was always on an EHU, then the real issue I would have is the noise. I would not want a domestic fridge in my bedroom, even though that is a bigger space, let alone a few feet from my ears all through the night, compounded by its even more disturbing starting and stopping.
  11. JTQ

    Towing Mirrors

    I have fitted lanyards on our Grand Areos used on a Disco 4, having long back lost one off a D3. These simply loop back onto themselves. These new Grand Aeros have the stuck on "rubber" high friction pads. Way pre getting these newer mirrors with the pads, I made my own higher friction aids by cutting a centimetre wide "rubber band" from a narrow width inner tube from a cycle.
  12. Don't overlook those with a non obvious disability. There are those of us who can't wait in a slow queue, if we need to pee we really have no extended time scale at all. It was not like that, but some afflictions that come along with aging change the whole situation.
  13. JTQ

    Solar panel

    My advice on drilling the hole is to work initially from below. First explore the roof space determining in broad terms where you would like it and where you could live with it, then going inside see what is there and where the cable entry is best located. Then I used a piece of "piano wire" of about 18 to 16 SWG [source a model shop catering for aero-modellers], of about a foot long, its "drill end" ground like a flat screw driver. This used in a drill, electric of hand-brace, makes a flexible drill bit, the end you can place neatly against a bulkhead, etc. precisely where you want the cable to come through, its flexibility allowing the drill's bulk, chuck diameter etc not to inhibit where you can make the hole. Its flexibility is not an issue if used at slow speed, and it can be tamed from whirling by pinching near midway between thumb and finger. Then go for it and drill through out of the roof. Go up there and check all is "good", if not, then a dab of Sikaflex on what is about a 1mm hole is cock up easily sorted, and the pinhole below will only ever be noticed by you! If as likely it is fine, go up there on the roof, drill kit in hand and use this pilot hole to drill a cable sized hole coming out where you really wanted it to. Just go very slowly not to tear the inner surface finisher as the drill breaks through. Masking tape placed there first helps minimise this, as does progressively increasing the hole's size, rather than using a single drill. But an extra dose of "care" is the best thing to use. All safety, hazard issues working up on the roof, of course taken into account.
  14. I am not confident the "feedback" loop is even initiated, as soon as production starts next year model is under "development". Some foreign makers I am sure gain by not changing much each year, more every decade. A plus here for astute buyers is they can better research the track record of what they buy.
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