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About JTQ

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  • Birthday 17/02/1943

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  1. Or the negative feed as only the positive comes via the tap switches in parallel. As the negative affects all it would be my prime target. I would simply "jury-rig" an alternative negative feed to identify that is where the attention is needed. If not then do a the same "alternative feed test, for the positive. Doing the feeds one at a time, as opposed to doing both, narrows down the issue.
  2. To my mind those four words hints very strongly that you are a party to the quoted warranty.
  3. Again, the facts are not that simple as quoted above, there are exceptions where signed lower limits apply to all traffic.
  4. Of much greater relevance here is what it will accurately measure down to, ie a few mAs?
  5. You learn something every day here, though my warranty was with the van builder and it placed obligations on me as the owner, much like Bailey's with the OP. Plus I had to sign it and return it to the dealer for them to register with the builder, plus I got a booklet with the whole network of dealers throughout Europe I could take it to under the warranty. Are we saying UK builders give the end user no warranty?
  6. For measuring specifically current a multi metre is IMO a lot more hassle to use than the Tenma series of task specific 12 vDC current testing devices plus that still retains the protection of the fuse. Clamp ons are fine though need access to a wire, not just the fuse panel, and even if buying a DC one can have a limiting usable current threshold. Like many things, it is "horses for courses" but here in checking a fuse carrying current a specific tool for that task is in my experience the least challenging route. Luckily I have a whole array of test kit, but for this task know which one I would recommend.
  7. As others also highlight just check the radio if fitted, as in this industry my experience is they bodge the installation by using a single feed for the maintained supply and power supply, whereas properly done the power supply should be switched replicating the missing ignition switch's function. This results in the two or three mA the radio's memory function would pull the whole sits there pulling a great deal more, mine [Pioneer] was I believe also pulling about 600 mA, even when off. I also recommend the cheap Tenma Automotive Current tester identified by "robhar", invaluable bit in any tool bag. Note you need the "right" version for the fuses you have, standard or mini blade, or like me to cover car and van, have both. Farnell list both versions.
  8. Sadly, that is also not right, it applies unless there are lower limits posted, for example its quite often the case with dual carriageways there are 40 and 50 mph limits to all users.
  9. Surprisingly then the reference you table is unfortunately here irrelevant. It being for a quite fast dynamic case, whereas we are discussing a static case. Being static no "work" is involved so no losses , and it follows no inefficiency. Thus, none of the stretch, flexing and dynamic friction losses they were encountering play any part. There can be a difference in the load on each side of the cord due to the static friction, but my assessment is this will be the odd kg, not a 40% error. It would have been a solution to counter you not having an adequately rated scale, one of greatly less error than you suggest, but never mind.
  10. Why would the tension in the cord not be the same both sides of a pulley? Only if there is excessive friction, which there will not be. Find a smooth enough bit under the hitch, say push back the gaiter to expose the shaft and you don't need the pulley to be way accurate enough for this task. Pulleys have been used for centuries as a way to divide loads, that is precisely what they do.
  11. Just use what you have but with a cord looped under the hitch, then back to the scale so the scale reads the tension in the cord. That is, make a handle to hold the scale handle and one end of the cord, run the cord under the hitch body and back up to the hook end of the scale. So hitch is lifted by the two sides of the cord, then the scale only reads half the hicth load. Place cord where it can readily slip, or if you want to spend more money use a pulley block. It is a standard method of using these sort of scales for overloads.
  12. Good, mine albeit an older model, probably 7 years old can't. Recording is a feature we use a lot as anything with ads is a pain too far to watch live. We also have a Humax multi tuner recorder that if we are on an EHU side steps our Avtex's limitations.
  13. I can't recall what my van's used for these handles 23 years ago, but picking up on the "rust" bit the OP's can't be the plastic of todays. I would systematically remove them give them a good degreasing scrub up using an old tooth brush, then repaint them with a material suitable lacquer. Using a rust killing primer if indeed they are rusting. If found to be plastic I would be tempted to use Humbrol plastic enamel as sold for painting the scale model kits.
  14. An area where recording either terrestrial or satellite programmes with the Avtex, is a bit of a pain is it does not have more than a now and next EPG, so you can't see the thing you want and simply click "record". You need to know the UK time the target programme will be transmitted, then after going through the EPG on the correct channel and click on record way in the future, on the menu that comes up adjust the timing to the data you have for the programme. Like many things, understand its "quirks" then working with them if not foolproof is no great struggle. Where it is a pain is it can't record something whilst you watch anything different; i is a one task device not capable of multitasking.
  15. It has a generic satellite decoder build in and you can record to a USB stick in this way, but that is via its own decoder so doing that is not using the SKY box derived signal. The generic signal decoder of course shares with SKY the non encrypted signals coming from the same cluster, just it does all the processing. If you can, or can't record from an external input signal I have not tried, though it seems you can from the above post. How for this was the SKY box's signal input to the Avtex, AV, HDMI or scart?
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