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JTQ

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About JTQ

  • Birthday 17/02/1943

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Hampshire
  • Interests
    Engineering, computing, outdoor life. cycling and walking
  • Towcar / Toad
    Disco4
  • Caravan / Motorhome / Static (Make and model)
    Hymer
  • Year of manufacture (Caravan / Motorhome / Static)
    2008

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  1. That is all looking about as would be expected, the system is clearly functioning and your understanding is right, there is presently a 10.4 Watts of power. As the sun rises in elevation this should improve, becoming far better during periods where the sunlight, rather than being diffused and reflected light off the clouds, is getting directly to the panel. That little Current tester really does unlock seeing what is actually happening. Glad to be of help. John
  2. And intimately linked to that, the carbon footprint, a massive justification for our planet of the diesel over the petrol ICE.
  3. Keep it a task requiring skill, and in a market where the buyer is just bottom line focused so the employer can't fund staff particularly well and the outcome is the worst. What we have in this industry now when the original skilled crafted vans like Castleton and the earlier Carlights, as examples, found insufficient punters; basically, we end up with only what "we" as a collective "want" to pay for. Our only hope is introducing processes and technologies where the artisans can't get it seriously wrong, though far more likely, as history teaches, import from a more focused supplier.
  4. Surely reducing assembly to require the lowest level of skill is no bad thing, it's easier to get simply task done "right", than one requiring special skills?
  5. If ever he was a journalist of some repute, that era has passed and he has now degenerated to no more than a poor wind-up merchant. He exhibits his poor background research as well, as with us blocking the roads at 70 mph is most improbable if ever going to be an issue, and come £70K Jag or not leaves him no legal place to go any quicker. Somewhat one we describe as just a "mouth on legs" and his participation reflects poorly on ITV, was there nothing better to discuss today?
  6. Precisely what I said, and is blindingly obvious, zero revs in not moving at all, there has to be a modicum of power to move, as moving implies speed is a factor. But a ludicrously low power can develop high torque, that is why we have gearing to offer the power at torque levels to do the required "work".
  7. Of course as I said there has to be power to move, because to move implies some speed element must be involved, but it is torque that give the ability to move or climb, as torque is force at the radius of the drive wheel. If the torque is too low it will not overcome rolling back down the hill let alone climb the hill. Power only dictates how fast you get up that hill, once there is adequate torque to climb. "Power" is to do with the rate of doing work, ie the speed at which work is done, not the "work" aspect itself.
  8. No, power level only dictates how fast you get over the hill. Whilst, to move, however slowly or fast, there has to be power, it's just the torque that power can be delivered at that does the "work", force x distance.
  9. The "shape" of the torque vs rpm curve is an important aspect, a good level of torque maintained over an acceptable rev range would be my preferred option. A narrow peaked, power point, presents the least attractive characteristic only tolerable with a multi ratio gear box. High power, is only of value if it can be used, ie it is available at a revs level, you and passengers can mentally live with.
  10. But what current did the tester read, when in that 20 amp fuse holder, whilst the voltage read out was 14.5 volts? As said earlier, knowing the amp [current] figure is the only real indication of what "amount" is actually going into the battery; albeit just at that moment of time. The volts only tells us how hard in has to "push" to get it in, not what it is achieving to push in. That's what current tells us and why it is important. Then, if you multiply the 14.5 volts with the amps from the reader, we will know what Watts the panel was achieving. Anyway, great to hear you have seen 14.5 volts, so we know at least the battery is being charged
  11. Also, don't overlook that three 85 Watt roof mounted panels, of the glass with aluminium frames are going to take at least 20 plus out of your payload. [Toughened glass with its excellent light transmission and longevity, needed for this application, can't come light weight in the thickness required to withstand hail.] Plastic flexible ones would be lighter in weight, but are less effective so need to cover a larger area, and can be not as reliable, plus being plastic prone in the longer term to degradation from UV.
  12. David, the readings might be explained by the battery being so low that the controller is forced into the bulk phase as you suspect. If that is true and the kit is working well, given time and good weather it will climb to 14.4 [according to one of Truma's data sheets for the "wet" setting.] In the bulk phase the current will be as high as the solar panel/controller can supply; there as Alan is saying, and I did, we need to know what the current [amps] is, as that is so informative. The tester I mentioned would give you that. Presently you can only observe how things progress, if all is well the voltage will rise then back off. From Truma's figures to 13.8, once and if it achieves "fully charged". It is slightly concerning that given the recent weather, that things are still down at the more depleted end, so of the bulk charge can't lift the voltage off that low 13.3 value. But if you had hammered your recent usage, that could explain why even with a healthy system, we could be down there. Time or an amp [current] tester, will tell. Your 20 odd volts from the panel, if nothing else proves it has the volts there to drive things, again, knowing the current in or out of the controller would add so much more informative info. Cheers, John
  13. JTQ

    Towing Myths

    More understandable, in that would be illegal so not likely to be covered by anyone, stated specifically or not.
  14. I can't help at all on Bailey's fuse configurations; others here might be able to. It would be very poor practice for the solar to battery connection not to be fused so I am pretty confident there will be one. The "current" tester measures Amps, the amount of electricity flowing, and the direction it is flowing in. Amps is of more relevance here than volts, in simplistic terms here, volts is the pressure to get things done, the amps the amount being done. The Amps reading will vary greatly reflecting both what the sunlight can provide and what the battery needs and can take, so we can't Talk a specific value. But if it is a 100 Watt panel there is the potential to see quite a high current. [Watts is power and is the multiple of the volts and amps; so 100/ say 14 volts=7 amps, therefore if the battery needed it, last Wednesday at about mid day, seeing a reading of a charge of 7 amps, would have been a possibility]. As the sun angle drops, the clouds gather, a fly lands on the panel or simply the battery in nearing "full" the amps will decay. On a dull day to possibly down to 0.5 amps. But the important thing is the current tester will show if the controller is doing anything, and it is an easy judgement to see if anything it is doing is in the right ball park. eg if the battery is down at 12.6 Volts, the sun is overhead and blazing like last Wednesday, if the current tester was only showing 1 amp, we know the solar system is not working anything like correctly. Using it past storting out the present potential issue, will quickly allow you to gain an understanding of the systems effectiveness and limitations in poorer light condition, so manage your TV usage etc. Then best shelved to avoid becoming like me, possibly a bit of a technical anorak!
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