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JTQ

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About JTQ

  • Rank
    Senior Member with over 5000 posts
  • Birthday 17/02/1943

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Hampshire
  • Interests
    Engineering, computing, outdoor life. cycling and walking
  • Towcar / Toad
    Disco4
  • Caravan / Motorhome / Static (Make and model)
    Hymer

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  1. The requirement is a Government one, "The water supply (water fittings) regulations " 1999. The CL, or CS would be a small business and this LINK gives a very simplified guide. Note, that "Out side taps", what we are talking about, require a minimum of a double check valve [NRVs] in the feed. IMO it is not something you can ignore because it gives trouble or can freeze internally, it is a legal thing you must do. In our case hoses and hose tails are very much frowned on, as despite the best effort there can be back flow, hence neither club will tolerate
  2. Sounds like the unit is not getting mains, unfortunately whilst checking that is easy enough, it is also something that without skills can be so dangerous for the untrained to go investigating. You know a friend with electrician skills? Edit, If you identify your van, somebody on here could know if the Alde mains is individually fused and where that might be located. Checking that is DIY- able, if you know where it is.
  3. Thanks Towtug for that informative posting.
  4. Great thanks, just that the statement made earlier, quote "From the 7th September last year the C of C must contain the actual weight relevant to the specific Variant and Version.", gave rise to my concern the interpretation being made was the weight would relate to a specific Variant and Version, not the specific item. Clearly, if you weighed something, without the need to say it, it has to relate to what model and version, it physically is. Thanks for the clarification; getting the weight for what actual physical van you seek to buy, is a massive step forward. Just
  5. It is a shame regulations can, as this, be written in what at least for lay people is so ambiguous wording. Not that I ought to be typical, having a lifetime of working to BS, EN, DIn and a whole spectrum of "standards" from many countries, companies, organisations, insurers etc! Maybe we could kindly ask the Legal Eagle to put a professional angle on how we ought to read this one, in more understood terms, please? "Actual mass of the vehicle", means to me the mass of the vehicle being discussed, not any other vehicle however similar. Compounded by the wording "a
  6. Can you help me understand what that really means please? "Actual" IMO has no ambiguity, but is it really the "specific van's weight" that goes on the C o C, or not the actual weight but a weight of a sample of that build of van?
  7. The brochures without exception quote "payloads", though in the small print will be a caveat, negating the quoted value. It is this that IMO the vast majority of buyers take, not surprisingly, as the "payload", even if they also can't get a handle on the full implications of what is or is not included, nor what real life "stuff" actually weighs. Sadly, I think the industry likes it this way, the normal buyer effectively blind to the real limits.
  8. With an activated monitor, in my case just driving the car out of the garage onto the road, it is live waiting to pick up the sensors as I use the mover to bring the van out onto the road. Peek in the drivers door and 80% of the time both sensors registered their pressures. So I know most times before driving off things are right and about 100% of occasions at least one is right. I never year in year out switch off the monitor, so that always wakes up if the car moves or doors get used, therefore, as I move the car before the van, I have to, it is ready to receive any van sensor transmiss
  9. The savvy buyer, one once "bitten", can agree a contractual maximum as delivered weight, on a build order. Or if an existing forecourt offer have it weighed pre purchase. There are portable pads/mats for just that weighing purpose. If they will not play, it tells you everything you need to know about placing an order with them.
  10. I think this move can only be sensibly adopted together with having a TPMS for the caravan, the goo and pump are only of possible use if there is an otherwise undamaged tyre to use it on.
  11. I was aware there are scenarios like yours where the system we now have will not cope, but I doubt the fridge ever did work efficiently pre smart alternators, given the loom scantlings in both cars and caravans. Though every little can't but help, even if minimally. Clearly, with the "standard" UK configuration we have not "the technology to support it". For your case some mod or more fundamental redesign is needed, but I contend as with our Continental colleagues, many here do not actually "need" it.
  12. I use a silicone grease specifically, rather than any petroleum based product because of the much better compatibility it would have with the wide range of "rubbers" that might be used in the seals. You were not alone in having corrosion issues years back, not heard of any in recent times and with this new TyePal I hopefully avoided it from the start.
  13. My present set has been in use continuously for 5 or more years, again with only needing about three monthly top up of 1 or 2 psi, which could be lost anywhere not necessarily via the sensor. I do put a smear of a very thick silicone grease on the stem tread, as I have a tube and I do this predominantly to avoid corrosion in the threads. That I have known occur, but the current stems, as the Tyrepal sensor's are made of brass, so would be unlikely here.
  14. Absolutely, and must be the reason dominating any inhibiting of stop start a manufacturer has for doing so.
  15. Logically it has to do that to "see" the tyre pressure. It does lose the double seal you would get with the Schreader and metal valve cap it you had metal caps, but as ChrisUK states knowing the tyre pressure far outweighs that doubling of the seal, IMO. Edit: look at it this way for added assurance, with the TyrePal screw on sensor. You know the pressure as it is, not what it was last time you broke the seal to measure it, and the multiple number of times without it, you must break the seal and hope it reseals. I suggest you avoid one issue by introducing many mor
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