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JTQ

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About JTQ

  • Rank
    Senior Member with over 5000 posts
  • Birthday 17/02/1943

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Hampshire
  • Interests
    Engineering, computing, outdoor life. cycling and walking
  • Towcar
    Disco4
  • Caravan
    Hymer

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  1. It begs the question, where in a caravan is a “logical” position for the room thermostat? We have already been told the often used location, within the control panel by the door is “daft”. Elsewhere, in heating and ventilation system design, areas to avoid are, convection from rads, sun lit areas, draughts, plus where human bodies cause local heating and convection disturbance, too high, too low, influences from kitchens, heat from TVs etc. So in a caravan it all becomes a big challenge to state where its location is logical. The more so now with high front glazing, air flow from blown air, or convection up the walls from Alde rads, where we are sitting radiating, and where our TV is located. Then, wherever we have in mind it is going to be pretty close to the kitchen with its abundance of heat sources and where there is activity to cause air disturbances. I am suspecting by the door, if like in our case this is slightly an alcove, but is away from the direct Alde convection, disturbances we cause and sunlight, may not be as daft a location as has been suggested? There it is likely to need a correcting offset, but the air should be as immune from disturbances from us, our appliances and solar as just about any location we can find?
  2. I can understand if the door is a lousy fit so subjects the control panel to draughts, why is locating the panel, so with it the room stat there considered a daft place? Is the door located a long way from the lounge on the model being discussed?
  3. I missed reading that the system had been serviced with a fluid change between April and September, which of course brings other causes into play. Post a fluid change where the system has not been subjected to a heat "soaking", one could expect it to drop. A failing of some sloppy PDI's, not "running the system in" properly with a good heat soaking.
  4. You unfortunately do have a problem, given that info. The only real reference for the fluid level we can use is with the system cold, otherwise the expansion of the fluid and traces of air primarly, throw any usable reference out. Best bet is booking into Alde UK.
  5. Chat the technical support team at Alde UK, ever as helpful and friendly as any company in this hobby. 01933 677765 or use the email contact via https://www.alde.co.uk/about-alde/contact-us/ Though IMO the subject is probably best initiated via a call.
  6. Another point to consider. If I recall you have a large van and one with both the convector circuit and in floor heating? Should that be the case then compared to many your system will have a greater overall volume of fluid and consequently when at peak temperature have to cope with a greater volume of expanded fluid. That leaves the possibility that you can't run with the standard 1 cm, without from that level the expanded volume being enough to overflow from the tank? Therefore, if that is the case, adding up to the standard level simply results in, during a high heat output demand thus the fluid reaching its peak temperature, the excess of fluid you put in is “dumped”. I even with just a convector circuit found out it proved pointless filling to two cm above the minimum mark, in that come the cooler times when all got very hot, it returned when cold to 1 cm. Mine simply dumped the excess it could not cope with. If yours carefully monitored to know that it does not drop further than what it appears to find its tolerable level, on the mark, then I would accept it as the physics of the thing. If it does not continue to drop then there is no circuit leak, if it does then it needs finding. A system leak would not stop just because the level dropped to the lower mark, but expansion dumping will happened irrespective of the volume used to top up, if the circuit volume is greater than the tank allows for expansion.
  7. This is a brilliant cordless pump for topping up the very high pressure we can have in our caravan tyres. A very serious recommendation. https://www.halfords.com/cycling/bike-maintenance/bike-pumps/topeak-joe-blow-sport-iii-bike-pump
  8. No bad thing having a goodly water flow there as it flushes the drain down valve. These I find prone to weeping, caused I suspect by little flakes of water hardness "fur" from the boiler and pipe that being left "dry" tend to break away on refilling. The time to refill, ought to trigger a realisation, by then it should have served that flushing role. If not open and close it a dozen times to break any detritus away.
  9. On my boiler I leave the grey knobbed tap air vent valve "cracked" open and the yellow drain valve fully open (lever upright). The inboard tank I drain and replace the bung, as its "hole" is seriously big for spiders etc to seek refuge up there. All taps on centre mixer position and open, Shower hose uncoupled and left in tray. Bit of antifreeze I drain last Alde refill put in the sink and shower water traps. Loo blade, left loose off the seal.
  10. Only if conveniently local to Pettycur Bay Park in Fife, there is an outlet that facilitates their refilling, and the size bottle suits the application. Around here the Safefill option has with the closing of all viable refill outlets, disappeared.
  11. I have had at least one that had a tiny leak where the valve body was screwed into the steel cylinder. So depending on time from refilling would become under specification. These were not noticeable stood outside, but smelt when in the confines of the gas locker. They were exchanged without question by the retailers. I would do a soapy water check before assuming and claiming it is down to malpractice.
  12. "If so, what would you recommend?" If you want the brutal truth, forget 400Watts wintertime space heating from a 95Ah battery and any solar system that does not cover a significant area. The battery is capable of giving about 0.6 kWh, and its construction means it will be wrecked in very short time if used to yield that. There are solutions, but will mean a very significant new investment, making other space heating options attractive.
  13. JTQ

    Battery life

    Given the higher price of an EV compared like for like to conventional IC powered, their life will need to be proportionally extended beyond the 14 years, for depreciation even to match todays levels. Somehow IMO that's a pipe dream, on two counts. One I don't think current lithium PO technology batteries can offer longevity into their late teens, just look at e-bikes. Secondly, after those late teens into the future, todays EVs are technically going to be way superseded, they will have minimal appeal above their scrap value. As stated earlier, we will wait till at least another significant development threshold in EVs is here and proven.
  14. I beg to differ, a roof strap can do untold fretting damage to the fabric and or its surfacing treatment, thus do "harm". The safer option is to strap the frame back down to the ground, typically internally and particularly the front centre rafter, I do this with my very heavy duty guy-lines, on an as needed basis, but Isabella do a proper "strap" version; the latter discussed here;
  15. JTQ

    Battery life

    Rest assured to correct for the valueless aging EV the powers to be will have jacked conventional fuel prices so high and introduced such restrictions the IC powered vehicle will be at least as valueless. Car ownership even by todays standards is going to hurt, and hurt a lot more. As mention above the technology of the EV offerings today are IMO going to change fast making residuals extremely weak as things progress. For us, we will play the waiting game and opt out of being early losers.
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