flashgordon

You have to perform a balancing act using the flaps on the other vents to reduce the flow to the front and send more to the rear, on some runs the manufactures find it easier to take the ducting down and under the floor?? to reappear where required, often they "forget" to insulate this external run thus cooling the hot air and making the vent pointless, some retrofit insulation can sort this out reasonably easily.

We've had something like this for years and has worked really well. https://www.amazon.co.uk/MX-Group-5017706607025-Telescopic-Curtain/dp/B00ECMNFTU?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_6

I checked with my device team last year before having my induction hob fitted, and their advice was its ok to use an induction hob but to cook at arms length and not to lean over an active hob. ICD's and pacemakers have been MRI compliant for years unfortunately the pacing leads fitted years ago are not, so I also have to have CT not MRI but the massive fields produced by a MRI are not anything like the power used by a induction hob as I am pacemaker dependent I "wear them out" quite quickly having a box replacement every 3 or 4 years this is my 4th ICD I had 5 pacemakers before the ICD became available, so I know a bit about them, I can pass quickly through an airport metal detector, use a microwave oven and even use a mobile phone all of which were big no no's when I had my first device fitted

As I'm fitted with an implanted ICD and completely pacemaker dependent I can discount that urban myth, cooking at arms length is perfectly fine, they don't however recommend leaning over an active hob. So far I have had no problems using my induction hob and hope to be using it for quite some time.

you could use either the outside aquaroll or the internal tank, the aquaroll could be pumped into the internal to fill it, and then switch to the internal pump to pump from it handy for showers etc as you had plenty of spare water available, I seem to remember there was a switch on the control panel to pump it in to the internal.

Snap, same as mine!

Turn on the lights in the washroom,If the impeller is seized the lights will dim momentarily when you try the flush. If they do then take out the flush pump and give the impeller a spin with a screwdriver to free it up, and then try again.

I have found that a pneumatic tyre works so much better than a solid tyre when using a mover, but got fed up re-inflating them whenever I needed to move the van, my puncture free version is the solution and seems to work just fine with my mover on both hard and soft surfaces.

I had a similar problem on a commercial site, we had booked a long weekend and had a series of meetings thrust upon me on the Friday afternoon so my "early dart" was scuppered and as the Thelwall viaduct was being repaired at the time it would have meant arriving after 10pm. I called and explained the problem and was assured that I could drop off my van on the Thursday lunchtime without any extra charge thus allowing me to use the ferry to miss the viaduct and all the tailbacks on the Friday, the plan worked out just fine and I am still a regular customer at the said site! Sometimes it pays to Talk to the organ grinder.

You could try http://www.go-araldite.com/products/araldite-product-selector#r_34_203 it seems to fit what you want to do

Try the mover without having it on your tyres, see if it runs unloaded, the battery might be fine until its loaded and then collapse. The motor connections are only spade connectors, so it's worth checking they are clean and tight under the rubber boot.

Just pop your reg into the battery finder and it will sort it out for you, I've used them for car and caravan batteries, and claimed after 4 years on their 5 year guarantee and had a new battery shipped out next day to me. https://www. alpha-batteries. co. uk/

Sounds like another Lemon, I'd reject the van and let the dealer do the worrying, they seem very happy to do the same to you! Remember the dealer is not your friend, they are not doing you any favours, they simply want your cash with the very minimum of bother to them, and they have already proved this by leaving you stuck with a problem and a depreciating asset for the last 3 months.

I buy leak proof batteries they cost a little more but are cheaper in the long run than replacing the item they power usually.

We had a very similar experience some years ago, and when we took it up with the manufacturer we were told that all the problems would be "sorted out by the dealer in the pdi!" When I asked why the problems hadn't been sorted out in the manufacturers quality control area before being dispatched to the dealer they took a step back and looked at me as if I had two heads, needless to say all of our hard earned and quite perfect pound notes stayed in our bank until we bought our Hymer, even that came with a fault, the dealer had managed to put an extra 0 in our registration plate number despite him having the old one in his hand whilst making it!