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limecc

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About limecc

  • Rank
    Over 500 posts

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    J28 Notts
  • Interests
    Save on diesel with a Gemini 105MC
  • Towcar
    Audi Q7, BMW X3
  • Caravan
    Fleetwood 640EB, Bailey Hunter 500/6

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  1. I confess to not having read all of this thread but it struck me that it would be simplest to get a secondhand (or not) onboard pump and then just have a tee piece to join the two Aquaroll pipes together before they enter into the van. Some (superior lol) vans like our Fleetwood have an on-board pump already. I like having two Aquarolls but don't mind manually changing over or checking there is enough water before I have a shower. The amount of hot water is limited after all. For me the prime benefit of the second Aquaroll is having greater water storage. I also thought about being cheeky and using a tap splitter if a shared tap is nearby, so that others can get their water - while your own Aquaroll is permanently connected using the mains kit! I wonder how this would go down with the warden or neighbours? I've purchased one but not tried it out yet .
  2. If you are able to DiY it is only £22 for a 13 pin plug terminated with 2m of cable.
  3. Useful if you have a movable panel on the ground though. Cheap and lightweight, could use tent pegs to hold it down on each corner.
  4. Yes each circuit, left/right indicator, both sidelights and both brake lights would need a resistor to earth, so 6 circuits. Need to draw no more power for each circuit with a resistor than with filament bulbs had they been fitted. I was suggesting ballasting in the cable because it might not be possible, for example in the marker lights because of physical space limitations.
  5. A good post Guzz which I think explains a similar problem I am having. The car expects to see a load in a soecific range and if the values are outside of set parameters there are problems. However when you say 'rip out the universal kit', this may not be necessary if the bulbs are suitably ballasted as you mention in your post above. Taking this one step further, why ballast every bulb individually when it could be done once in the wiring harness where the 13 core wire terminates or else in the plug itself? This is what I plan to try, I don't need to dissipate 20w because my trailer module is already expecting to see a lower LED type load. The OP is well advised to keep the 13 pin plug and socket which are far more reliable, this is not the problem. LED bulbs/canbus are the issue.
  6. Yes there's a useful diagnostic video on YouTube. However it all checks out and blinks green when a trailer is connected. Solid green when ignition is on and no trailer connected.
  7. On our old Bailey caravan I converted it to 13 pin electrics and changed all the bulbs from filament to LED bulbs of the same type. When connected to my Audi with factory towbar everything works great and as expected. When I tried it with my wife's BMW it was a different story, sidelights flashing instead of indicators, all kinds of nonsense. The car is fitted with a Westfalia dedicated wiring kit which has a LED trailer module similar to the one shown below. It works perfectly with the LED lighting board on our boat trailer, so there is an obvious canbus incompatibility. My question is what to do next. I want to be able to tow the Fleetwood at the same time Mrs Limecc is towing the Bailey (it's not a his n hers arrangement 😀, friends or family will be using the latter). I was thinking of incorporating low value resistors in series into the indicator, side and brake light positive feeds inside the 13 pin plug. Would this work, if so what value? Should it be a higher value resistor on each to earth? Going back to filament bulbs seems a retrograde step. I might add that we can't just swap cars as the BMW is not suited to tow the Fleetwood and at some point I will be changing the Fleetwood bulbs for LED also.
  8. Assuming you can get them in your size, always buy Michelin Cross Climate. I had these in the past on my wife's car but they are not available for my Audi. I have rims with Dunlop Winter tyres which were super noisy and had Avon summer tyres which were super quiet. The new Pirelli's came with some spare rims and at the price I paid were effectively free but now I have to put up with them for the next 20,000 miles. All the more reason to get Cross Climate tyres. No need for him to store 8 wheels and tyres.
  9. I would (and did) wire them up in series to take advantage of low light and MPPT. Sikaflex makes panels difficult to remove without damage and this is almost inevitable at some point. I used three panel length strips of 50mm wide Velcro tape which gives a thermal gap to the roof and allows the panel to expand in extreme heat without distorting or delaminating the roof panel it is fastened to. The edges I carefully sealed with CT1 capped with 25mm aluminium tape which acts as a wind deflector. While durable, it is easily removed or replaced if needed.
  10. Winter tyres are dangerous and should be removed in summer. Do you do this for the caravan? I recently fitted Pirelli all season tyres on the car which unlike Michelin Cross-Climate are a compromise (long story why I had them) and am disappointed in the increase in road noise. I think All Season's are more suited for a caravan than Winter's.
  11. There's no need for battery condition to be a guessing game. All you have to do is take it to your local car repairer and get him to use his (£30+) conductance tester on it while you wait. Literally only takes a minute and the battery doesn't even have to be fully charged. Take a four pack of beer as a thank you.
  12. Repair might be a better option and if you (or they) lay some glass behind what is obviously a weak point then it would be better than new when painted up.
  13. I mounted mine on long strips of 50mm Velcro tape so should have a slight thermal gap to hopefully prevent any roof delamination by direct contact or conduction. They are water sealed at the edges with silicon topped with 25mm aluminium tape. Recent inspections were reassuring after 1 year since fitting. If one fails it will be disappointing but easy and cheap to repair.
  14. You will love the feeling of being off-grid. It adds an extra dimension to the experience, pretty much like using the onboard shower, sink and toilet where you would normally use shared facilities. I've never camped nor have the desire but I guess campers feel the same - in comparison to us they 'rough it'.
  15. 80a fuse, holder and lugs sourced via Amazon.
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