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limecc

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About limecc

  • Rank
    Over 500 posts

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    J28 Notts
  • Interests
    Save on diesel with a Gemini 105MC
  • Towcar
    Audi Q7+
  • Caravan
    Fleetwood 640EB

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  1. I have a panel for sale due to a touch panel upgrade. Any reasonable offer accepted.
  2. A few years ago I had to replace the rear panel of my Fleetwood due to accident damage. To do that I purchased the last ever genuine rear panel blank from O'leary Motorhomes over a pattern fibreglass panel from somewhere else. However I could see that the panel was very thin in the area where this type of cracking occurs and I decided to strengthen it before fitting. The attached pics tell the story. I'm not suggesting to remove an already fitted panel to do a repair, but Sikaflex or similar adhesive sealants will not work. Although these are 'ABS' panels I would not imagine the same MEK cleaner and ABS cement used for ABS pressure pipes would work either. Never seen it in any colour other than grey anyway. My suggestion is the same method used to repair boat hulls and it involves epoxy resin. Not white Gelcoat as this doesn't have the added wax, you want a product known as Flowcoat. Try a search for it on Ebay. I would use a rotary burr to create neat groove (e.g. 3mm wide but don't widen the actual crack) and then paint in the resin in layers until flush. Don't let it fully dry in-between layers or it won't key unless sanded. Then carefully go through the wet and dry grades until finishing off with T-cut and car polish, keeping as close to the repair area as possible. I think you'll need to pull back the awning rail near the section of repair to be fully effective.
  3. Thanks for this Vinny (and Alan prev post). I'll use a Bosch multi-tool but if it vibrates the skin too much will revert to pad saw as you suggest. I'll cut the corners with a large hole saw when I know the correct radius to use. I'm not sure of the needed timber size yet, the width is fixed by the insulation thickness of course, also how it is usually fixed, I suppose Gorilla glue will work well and I'll have to dig out the foam core to accommodate the timber. I can't decide if to use one long Coachman hinge rail for two windows or have a separate one for the bathroom that would keep the adjacent front Bailey (offside) window on a Bailey hinge. I have hinge rails for both. Swift and Coachman hinges appear to be the same and will work with a Bailey window but limit the full 90 deg opening of the window. Sadly the Bailey hinge cannot be shared with the new (1990's) Swift window. Maybe I should have searched for a Bailey frosted window but the one I got was only £20 and is very close to the same style. Too late to change now. I'll certainly post a write-up and pics of the job when I've done. Here's a pic showing where the window will go (ie above the toilet cassette), old girl still needs a clean but isn't quite as bad as in this shot.
  4. I always keep the corner steadies up, in fact don't need them down in storage if it's a twin axle.
  5. Hi Rooster, It's a second van aquired (for free) due to the death of my father-in-law and will continue to be used by other members of the family but not by ourselves. I have a few things planned for the Fleetwood but nothing much compared to the Bailey due to the relative perfection (!) lol. I might end up selling the finished Bailey for another renovation project at some point, it's very satisfying (caravan version of 'Wheeler Dealers'?) and there's low risk of buying a dud because there's no mechanicals. I'm fortunate to have some land to store it when the works are done.
  6. The restoration on the Bailey Hunter 500/6 is going well, I have completed some major works including fitting a new (generic) shower tray, new draw bar bushes and a delamination repair. Next I'm thinking about upgrades and have purchased a frosted bathroom window where nothing presently exists. I have everything I need to install it, seals/hinge/catches etc (except for a dry weather window lol). Although confident, I'm looking for advice and tips, things to watch out for to help the job go as smoothly as possible. Has anyone done this job in the past? How best to construct and fix the wooden frame? Any links to share? Many thanks!
  7. Bracing is a bad idea for the reasons found here http://www.davidmbell.com/elddis/delamination/ In any case, bracing is not needed when there is no delamination. There's no need to mark out the floor imho, extreme precision is not needed as long as the holes are drilled 4 or 5" apart. There's a fine line before drilling all the way through so I set my drill stop slightly short and used a screwdriver to make sure there was a path for the glue to reach the bottom ply. I needed 8mm x 40mm dowels. Underneath I used a trolley jack and some timber to make sure the lower ply was supported and flat. Inside the van on the top ply I used some 3"x 2" timber bracing and some screw blocks, the screws through the top ply (only) lifts out any sag and also reduces chances of upward bowing if too much glue is used. I used masking tape on the timber in case any glue were to prevent separation from the floor after the repair. I aluminium taped up the floor joins and made sure there was no step between ply edges. I decided to use a one-shot resin, the green polyurethane sold on Amazon is similar in properties to Gorilla glue, and likewise has little or no smell. I'm going to use a belt sander but will use a sharp chisel to remove as much surplus glue as possible, the dust is quite hazardous.
  8. I've got a similar repair to do but nowhere near as bad. Thanks for posting your pictures. My approach will be to use a ply patch of the same (thin) thickness or else it would look stupid and the expansion rates would not be the same as the surrounding wood. I will cut out the section and use Gorilla glue to effect the repair. I also have some of that green delamination glue which is very similar to Gorilla in terms of it's properties, like expanding foam without the high expansion but what there is will fill a small void and it won't melt the polystyrene. I will use a block of timber and trolley jack to hold everything in place until it's gone off. Will need some masking tape on the timber support or else it might not separate afterward! I'll be sure to post some before and after pics here. Could only be done using Epoxy, because Polyester or Vinylester resin will melt the polystyrene core. P.S. Pesh, did you get the repair finished?
  9. I fitted these Amazon panels as well, saw a maximum of 17.5 amps in the summer, output from the MPPT controller. That's 4.38 amps each panel after losses. Pictures here: https://www.caravantalk.co.uk/community/topic/113442-fixing-semi-flexible-panels/page/3/#comments
  10. I thought about increasing the drop but it would be negated if the caravan was not levelled and you need to keep enough height to clear the waste container at the pipe outlet. Sometimes a pitch is sloping toward the front so this is important. The slots used in the chassis hold the pipe so nicely I don't really need to fix additional brackets.
  11. Because it's an older van I couldn't justify £300 on a pattern original Bailey replacement shower tray and I couldn't even justify the cost of an in-situ Speedcoat type repair. All these little renovation costs have been adding up to near the value of the van. O'learys to the rescue! I purchased a cut n trim universal tray from them for £50 and was very surprised by the quality and thickness of the moulded plastic. Seems very tough and looks good. I made a supporting frame for the tray and had to move the outlet hole using a trolley jack and piece of wood (with 50mm aluminium tape to seal) to provide a surface to work against on the underside. I cut a circle of ply using a hole saw and cut some loft insulation to go on top of that. The layers were glued in place using Gorilla glue and a heavy weight was placed on top to prevent uplift until it had all gone off. The tray was held in place on the frame using CT1 adhesive sealant. For perfect silicon beads I used a cheap tool from Screwfix. Wish I'd known about and purchased one of these years ago! I'm thinking about waterproofing the walls to eliminate the shower curtain and create a wetroom using 2mm sheet material from these guys: https://plasticsheetsshop.co.uk Next job is to fit a frosted window where nothing exists at present though. P.S. Also check out the cheap universal trays from: https://www.grasshopperleisure.co.uk/shower-trays--bath-91-c.asp
  12. During the renovation of our 1998 Bailey I found the 23mm corrugated waste pipes were in very poor condition, cracked and even sections missing in places. This flexible pipe isn't very clever from new as it traps food and creates smells and because it's got a small bore it drains slowly and can get blocked. Plus you have 3 outlets to connect. I decided to fit 32mm Polypipe from B&Q instead which is just a few quid per length and the fittings are about the same price. The corrugated pipe is cut close as possible to the underside of the van and the rubber sleeves for the flexible pipe ends were re-used and were a perfect fit to the bore of the 32mm Poly. Stainless Jubilee clips were used to keep the pipes together and the standard 32mm pipe clips were fixed to the underside with Stainless screws. When arriving on site, the wastemaster is placed at the side of the van and the 32mm outlet swings down into place above the hole. Hopefully the pictures tell the rest of the story.
  13. Rodders you are absolutely spot on. I have a 1998 Bailey and the corrugated pipe is approx 23mm ID and 28mm OD and I fitted 32mm Polypipe to the rear of the van. The rubber sleeve for the flexi pipe ends happens to be a perfect fit to the ID of 32mm Polypipe. I'm creating a separate thread with pics detailing the conversion shortly.
  14. As an addendum to this topic, the 5050 strip finally arrived and I used two 10" strips to replace one strip of burnt 5630 leds in a single light fitting. I'm really disappointed with the brightness now I have the over-voltage sorted. Therefore I've gone full circle and recommend members buying 5630 leds not 5050's. I'm really happy with the 3528 strip in warm white though. Nice soft lighting under the overhead lockers is perfect at night and is easy on the eye.
  15. As mentioned I purchased the units you suggested but although small could only get one in the double light fitting. Therefore went a cheaper and easier route intercepting the lighting feed exiting the fuse board.
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