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About micktheshed

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    Over 1000 posts

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    mickgordon113@yahoo. co. uk

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  • Gender
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  • Interests
    Caravanning & Enjoying Retirement
  • Towcar
    3L Auto Nissan Terrano
  • Caravan
    Swift Elegance 530, 2018

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  1. micktheshed

    Gas, Propane, regulator

    As above & make sure the small breather hole in the regulator is pointing downwards! It's either a propane regulator or it's not, they are not interchangeable with butane. The symptoms 'running for a while & then cutting out' sound to me very much like a faulty/fouled diaphragm. The easy answer is to try another one .
  2. micktheshed

    Fridge not working off car

    Assuming the element is effectively working, then check the voltage actually reaching the fridge (at it's connecting block at the back). With the engine on, running at a fast idle, & perhaps headlights on if it has an 'intelligent' (read: idiot) alternator, it should then be producing 14/14. 5V approx. (check the voltage at the battery & 13 pin plug), then check this at the fridge connection block. Note that the on-board habitation relay will not trip, & so allow power to the fridge, until a high-enough voltage exists. If you have a recent Swift then the Command display shows 'engine running'. Without the fridge on it will be nearer 12. 5/13V than 14 (12. 5 on mine) due to voltage loss in the under-sized wiring, with the fridge on it will be 11/12V approx. (11. 5 on mine!). Since the fridge needs 12V min to work at all it's obvious that the wiring, via 13 pin plug, is far too small in section. Who'd of thought it LOL. The only answer to this, that I can see, is either to revert to 2x7 pin plugs (so allowing much bigger cables to be used) or as I have done: wire direct from the battery with heavier cables via a dedicated 12S socket/plug straight to the back of the fridge (disconnecting the original wire). I've actually used some spare EHU cable, 1 for live(via a 20A fuse) & 1 for earth. The 6 wires are connected via 6 separate pins thus reducing losses further. The original fridge earth is left in place & the 7th pin is inked to one of the lives in both the plug & socket. This should allow min. possible voltage drop & full ampage potential. A bit O-T-T but I want it to actually WORK. I haven't used the 'van yet but as it's 1st service is due on the 27th I will get the mobile to check the element (even though the dealer 'claims' it is OK) & then the voltage/ampage with the original & then my new wiring, just to see the difference. I'm expecting a big improvement, but in any case, will report back ASAP. Note my version will need the 7 pin plug to be disconnected, unless the engine is running, as it bypasses the hab relay & so will allow constant feed from the car battery (in other words just like the 'vans of old). (My swift will have a beserk alarm fit anyway unless the fridge is switched off as well.) Amazingly the old 'vans always worked OK. .....I wonder why? Perhaps they were just designed better LOL.
  3. micktheshed

    Alko spare wheel carrier - seized

    I was under the impression that being very difficult (or impossible) to remove, was the only good feature of the Al-Ko carrier: it makes the SW thief-proof LOL. The first thing I do to any new 'van is take it off; the wheel then lives in the 'van & gets used as ballast. On site it either holds down the awning mud wall, if the wind gets up, or is potentially used as packing under one of the feet. Even getting it off a new 'van is no easy job. The carrier finds does other uses but definitely not 'van related, Over the years I've got quite a collection of them. The one place I don't want my SW is hidden away, getting filthy, under a 'van with a flat tyre & possibly needing extraction out into the roadway! There are less messy ways to commit suicide. (Suggestions freely available on request LOL). If it's ever needed it's instantly, & easily, accessible in it's nice clean waterproof bag, & so easy to check the pressure too. I've heard too many horror stories, regarding these carriers, to ever want one on my 'van.
  4. micktheshed

    Mains cable problem

    Now that was a vintage year LOL.
  5. micktheshed

    13 pin plug problem

    If you can narrow it down to either the socket or the plug then I would recommend changing it (or them). In my experience any fault not obvious justifies this. It's by far the quickest option. These plugs are an aquired knack to undo LOL. I've high-lighted the relevant features. Unless you have a green cap note the position of the key first! The inside needs to be rotated anti-clockwise (you should hear a click) to the position shown, this might need some (or a lot of!) patience LOL. Locate the key (on the inside), & note the relative position of the arrow. The slot is then in line with another key on the inside of the outer body & with a bit of persuasion from a rod pushed through the rubber shroud, it should push out. Best of luck.
  6. micktheshed

    One Shot Nut

    Pretty accurate then, but personally I'd still prefer a larger version for Al-Ko nuts. Few tools like being used at, or in this case, near their max, capacity. Otherwise it looks to be just the job, especially accuracy-wise.
  7. micktheshed

    Mains cable problem

    FYI: As I recall (from when I was a mere slip of a lad & an engineering apprentice ) to anneal copper it has to be heated until red, then quenched in water. Hardly likely to happen naturally on site?
  8. micktheshed

    One Shot Nut

    'a castellated nut costs more to make than the one shot nut', its all about initial build cost. ........ say no more. ....
  9. micktheshed

    One Shot Nut

    1, thanks for the info re: orange deposit', I've always wondered. 2, & people still can't understand why I prefer to do the job myself? I've some found dealer's staff to be surprisingly (frighteningly?) lacking in basic know-how. 3, nice to know I'm not the only one who thinks so. 4, I've managed to insert a 'photo of my 3/4" drive torque wrench (can't get it all in without being too far away LOL. (Also, can't get over the fact that I've managed it LOL). 5, 'Paul 1957': that looks a very useful piece of equipment (pity they are shy on accuracy details!). Also max torque with only1/2" drive is a bit small for the torque being used, as the necessary socket is 3/4" or 1" square. I managed to twist off a 1/2" bar doing my first Al-Co nut! Since the Al-Co nut relies on friction (mainly from the ovoid threads)I'm amazed that grease, of any sort, is used. I presume it has to be of a very particular spec. otherwise the torque would vary considerably. , so I would be very interested to know the details.
  10. micktheshed

    One Shot Nut

    Perhaps you can enlighten me as to what the orange coloured deposit on the threads is then? Note! this is a serious enquiry, (I'm not trying to wind you up). During the later half of my life-time working in engineering, there were grades of locktite specifically to resist heat, are these no longer available? As regards the deforming of the nut's thread I quite specifically stated that this occurs & hence the use of thread lock, also not recommending more than one re-use. I've heard of more than one occurrence of a new nut coming off so the built-in ovoid distortion of the thread is no %100 guarantee of retention on it's own. I never had this happen on any of mine! The cost of purchasing (or hiring if that's even possible) a suitable torque wrench to do just one or two nuts would be prohibitive anyway. It's a specialized piece of kit. The readily available 'click' type is unlikely to be of high enough rating & even less likely to be of the required accuracy, even though these are frequently used to do the job. The one I have (from over 20 years ago!) cost two weeks wages even then, & is basically a 4ft torsion bar mechanism connected to a dial gauge reading up to 350 Ft. Lbs & the accuracy is almost beyond belief. As I recall the torque needed on the nut is almost this amount, can't remember the exact figure but it's very high. Having carried out extensive tests about 16 years ago on a similar set-up to a wheel hub (but transmitting much more torque) I found the only %100 solution was to use an aircraft spec. self-locking nut costing 5 x the price, but at least it was reusable. The one-shot nut is just the cheapest solution rather than eg. the original pinned type. Lets not pretend that it's the best available. As to whether anyone cares to use my method is up to them, however, it does require a disciplined approach & some engineering nounce.
  11. micktheshed

    One Shot Nut

    If you are having trouble getting a replacement nut you could always try my method: Obtain some locktite thread-lock & a suitable socket tool & breaker bar, mark the position of the nut before removing. On re-assembly apply a small amount of locktite (3 drops spaced around the thread) tighten the nut up to the same, or very slightly past, the original mark. This will doubtless horrify those who don't know any better than to blindly believe the 'one-shot' mantra is God's will (but it's mainly intended to be an idiot-proof rule), however it's perfectly safe if done correctly. I don't recommend doing this more than once, though, as the nut threads will have deformed slightly each time. If you don't have the necessary ability to do as suggested then a very expensive (& accurate!) torque wrench will be essential. I would still recommend using the locktite, for extra safety, no matter which method you choose. I've used the above method on several 'vans over the years (when I used to do my own servicing) even though I have all the necessary tools. A 350 Ft Lb (max.) torque wrench was used to re-tighten which is why I know that the used nut(s) ended up in the same position each time. I suspect some form of locktite is used initially & it's certainly a very reliable engineering solution for stopping things coming loose: to the point where I'm tempted to use it on the wheel bolts, if I ever have one come loose that is.
  12. micktheshed

    Mains cable problem

    I always inspect the connections on new cables as in the past I've had several problems with loose terminals, faulty plugs etc. causing arcing (on one occasion very audible, as was my language upon getting a shock!) & then over-heating/tripping. I do the same check with 7 or 13 pin plugs, though I've only ever found two of these faulty. The 'loose' terminal syndrome has, I find, become more prevalent since the use of crimped end covers on the wires (can't think of the name) has succumbed to the penny-pinchers. I think the wires gradually squash over time & so loosen. If you don't want to waste the faulty cable (& assuming it is still serviceable) cut it in half (I do this anyway as the whole 25M is very rarely needed) & fit extra plugs. Try each half separately to eliminate the 'bad' half. Then cut, say, 50 to 100mm at a time off the suspect end of the 'bad' one until it's OK again (or too short to be any use LOL). It'll take some patience mind. I'd advise fitting a new plug here though, just to be on the safe side. If required the two cables can be easily connected to give a longer length, otherwise 1/2 the weight can be left at home (where it will be quite content until your return LOL).
  13. micktheshed

    Caravan showers, time to make them optional ?

    Never mind the options issue, what I can't get to grips with are the people that buy 'vans with all the belts & whistles & then feel it's necessary to brag about not using them, especially items like the shower & toilet. I'm left wondering how they manage when they are at home LOL. The only people to benefit are, presumably, the next owners. A bit like my OH insisting the carpets live up the loft until sale time. Can't, personally, see the point of buying something, carting it around the country, & then not using it. Then again, as the saying goes, it takes all sorts.
  14. micktheshed

    Upset : Major 6TD Pothole?

    I'm glad some-one else has the sense to understand this. People seem to use their empty 'vans as storage containers with no regard for the effects! My S-i-L amongst them. Never goes near his 'van from the last outing until the next (up to 5 months) & then wonders why it smells 'fusty' & the bedding is damp. Doohh! I have always had the opposite approach, emptying my 'van for the closed season & jacking it up to take the weight off the suspension. This not only gives the suspension a well-earned rest but also makes it just the little bit harder to steal: other 'vans suddenly become much more desirable. Problem is, it takes a bit of effort LOL.
  15. micktheshed

    Low oil

    This sounds a distinct possibility but could be several other things. Going by the age I would assume it's a diesal but is it a 2. 7L or a 3L? In any case contact the owner' website for advice; they are top notch: http://www. nissan4x4ownersclub. com/forum/forumdisplay. php?f=49