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Brecon

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Posts posted by Brecon

  1. All gas water heaters must be balanced flue units , the old style open flue appliances are illegal now and cannot be repaired or fitted.

    You would be best to look at a Morco unit, which is what most static vans have that provide hot water and central heating.

     

    As long as your brother is gas safe LPG certified he can fit the new one, but if he is only NG certified you will need to get a LPG certified fitter.

  2. There is a way to remove the broken plug without damaging the heater.

    Using a junior hacksaw blade with the pins on one end removed, gently make 5 cuts through the plastic stub.

    When cutting the plastic it should be a smooth cutting action with no drag, as soon as t you feel the hacksaw teeth drag STOP.

    Then using a small flat bladed screwdriver, ease one of the segments you have just made out making sure it comes out and not pushed back into the heater, the other segments will come out easier.

     

    The thread will need cleaning up and  towball bolt will do the job , use an old bolt and cut two grooves in it and slowly ease it into the thread. Keep bringing it out every turn to remove any debris.

  3. 5 hours ago, Claireavan said:

    Ok I’ll try that but I’ve some more problems facing me next... the “run off” lid came away in my hand and is stuck inside... 🤦‍♀️🤦‍♀️🤦‍♀️

    9F681220-EE3B-4A3D-901C-38A0A90D3052.jpeg

    D86509AD-2B0C-443D-B961-BDB873804E81.jpeg

    923B571C-51CD-430C-8B04-FAE755E12B53.jpeg

    Looking at these pictures you certainly do have problems, none of which you can attempt to repair and you need a mobile caravan engineer who knows how to deal with these heaters.

     

    First of all the drain plug has sheared off and getting the remaining bits out is difficult at the best of times for someone who knows how fragile these are.

    Secondly the burner module is severely corroded and most likely will not work and needs replacing, but spares for these heaters are very hard to find .

  4. On most, if not all, sites require any groundsheet to be breathable, and to be lifted regularly to protect the grass.

    Obviously that does not apply to hardstanding with no grass, but on a lot of sites now, hardstandings are made of a honeycomb material filled with soil and grassed over.

     

    As for your assumption that breathable will allow moisture through, yes they will, and mud !!

  5. 4 minutes ago, Legal Eagle said:

    I'm not disputing the standards applied by responsible contractors and fitters but your assertion that the legislation applies is incorrect.

     

    In addition the IET wiring regulations are not legislation but an industry standard.  The NICEIC states:

     

    Industry Standards are voluntary codes of rules written by the industry to which they apply and approved by a nationally recognised body.  They are aimed at simplifying the terminology, processes and procedures used within that particular industry.

     

    Standards (whether International, European or British) do not form part of law, nor are they legally enforceable, except where they form part of a contract.  In a contract, the relevant standards will normally be stated as the standard of work required to fulfil the contract.

    So, what you are advocating is that anyone can do anything they want and have no regard for safety, of themselves or others.......well done !!!!

     

    I despair !

  6. And can I point out as a caravan engineer of over 20 years that whilst the regulations do not apply strictly to the touring caravan, ALL gas installations are done to the same level of compliance and are strictly adhered to by caravan engineers for the safety of owners and others.

  7. 6 minutes ago, johntog said:

    You don't need to be Einstein to work out that putting any electrical item that may produce a spark if a fault were to develop alongside a cylinder of gas that may develop a leak is a really stupid idea. I can't believe this is even being questioned. You don't need the exact legislation, it's common sense. :angry:

    John 

     

    Exactly, but some folk seem to think they know best.

     

    Gas + Spark (from any switch or battery terminal within the gas locker) = very big bang, no caravan left and probably no owner left alive, or anyone near them.

  8. 1 hour ago, mark-w said:

    4, any link to the law? Or just a caravan myth?

    Gas Installation and Use Regulations, Electrical installation regulations.

    It is NOT permitted by law to have a battery, or any other electrical equipment,  in the same compartment as the gas cylinders, even in a battery box.

    It is no use trying to do things that would put you and others at risk just because you "think" it is OK.

  9. Google is not your friend and you have taken what suits your agenda to promote unsafe and illegal practices as far as gas and static vans are concerned. I am not even prepared to go into domestic houses situations with you.

     

    Yes there is a lesser qualification available for caravan engineers and it is legally required.

     

    You stick to your thinking but do not advise others to do the same .

     

    Just out of curiosity, are you Gas Safe LPG qualified?

     

  10. Where is your proof of what you say?

    As a Gas Safe LPG engineer I totally disagree with your interpretation of what can and cannot be done.

     

    As far as privately owned touring caravans are concerned an owner may do anything with the gas system as long as the van is not used by anyone other than the owner, anyone who charges to do work MUST be qualified to work on the relevant systems.

  11. 15 minutes ago, Camperdom said:

    You can do your own gas work on your home brick or mobile.

    Where do you get that idea from?

    Static vans fall under Gas Safe regulations and as such must be worked on by a Gas Safe LPG engineer.

  12. 6 hours ago, Mr Plodd said:

    Why do manufacturers make these (and so many other) things so complicated and reliant on PCB's when all that is required is a simple totally mechanical  on/off switch which very rarely, if ever, go wrong??? 

     

    You can blame yourselves, the caravanning public for wanting everything they have at home in a small tin box and wanting more advanced controls so that they can play with their smart phones, as well as keeping the caravan engineers busy .

    No delicate electrical equipment such as PCB's  like being driven around in a very bumpy wobble box , they prefer a static environment, with relatively constant temperatures, not subjected to extremes of heat and cold.

  13. The PCB is inside the control box at the back of the gas fire, it is part of the Ultraheat unit which is a bolt on addition.

    With the probability that it is the PCB, given the very restricted access you have and the need to remove the gas fire to get to the Ultraheat control box I advise getting a mobile engineer to undertake the work as he will have all the necessary test equipment and seals to ensure safe reconnection of the gas fire, which would also be a good time to have the fire serviced.

  14. The problem with any tyre sealant is when the tyre needs replacing and a lot of tyre places refuse to deal with the mess inside the tyre.

    Also, unless the puncture is very small, like a nail in the tread, they are more or less useless, and most caravan tyre failures are sidewall damage which is irrepairable anyway.

     

    Not worth the money.

  15. Ok, so on to the right item..............

    The Ultraheat is a unit located behind the gas fire and if it has a reset switch, which not many had, the you need to get access to the control box which is at floor level at the back of the gas fire.

    If the fire is located in the wardrobe area then there should be a panel in the base of the wardrobe which can be removed to give access, however, if it is located in the drawer unit then unless you can remove a drawer and with a mirror and light you may be able to locate the reset, otherwise it is a case of removing the gas fire and all that entails upon refitting, with new gaskets , tightness testing etc. 

  16. First of all , Truma water heaters do not have a trip switch as such.

    What they do have is a thermal cutout which operates if the heater has been switched on without water in it.

    It only works a few times before it fails completely.

     

    On the majority of vans there is the MCB on the main distribution panel that needs to be in the up position, and also an isolation switch near the heater , usually low down near the floor in the seating front panel. That needs to be on also, but only switch on if the water system is full.

     

    If it still does not work on electric, ,then it will probably be the heating element has failed and needs a new one.

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