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Brecon

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About Brecon

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    South
  • Towcar
    Kia
  • Caravan
    Hobby

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  1. As you are using your van as a business I hope that you have the necessary legal certificates for the gas and electric installations. The gas MUST be certified by a Gas Safe Registered engineer and the Electric by a fully qualified 18th edition electrical engineer and the certificates MUST be displayed in the van.
  2. The window hinge part is not available as a spare part as they are pressed on during manufacture.
  3. The only sure way is with very fine Wet & Dry (P1200 or 2500) and lots of water. With gentle pressure the Wet and Dry will polish the GRP as well as removing the paint
  4. If you want a really good end product give Tourershine a ring.
  5. No is the simple answer
  6. No, the S is simply the model type it does not mean the fire has the Ultraheat as part of it, that is a added extra .
  7. As long as the van has been regularly serviced there is absolutely no problem using the gas fire , even overnight, as it is totally room sealed with combustion air being drawn in from under the van and the exhaust being released through the roof mounted exhaust ducting.
  8. The simple facts are that microwave ovens do not like being bounced around for miles, subjected to extremes of temperature and being enclosed in a tight space. The microwave ovens fitted in caravans are exactly the same as those sold in shops, although some model designations may not be available to the general public , as in the OP's case, but the basic unit is the same with minor cosmetic changes for the likes of Bailey. It may be enlightening to know that about half the microwaves that are initially fitted fail before the van leaves the production line and have to be replaced. Whilst it may be nice to have all the things we may have at home, some just do not like travelling and will fail very quickly.
  9. Your method using the aquaroll and float is by far the safest way. Having a direct to van connection means that if there is a problem, the water will keep flowing into the van, and I have seen this happen on a Lunar which the occupants had gone out for the day and a pipe parted company inside the van. When I arrived water was pouring out of the door and numerous other places, like gas drops and vent holes and it was a brand new van which was then a write off as the water had soaked into all the internal woodwork and would cause it all to "blow" . If your system has a fault all that happens is the pitch gets very wet until someone turns off the tap , but your van is safe.
  10. IEE Wiring Regulations state that the hookup cable be 2.5mm. Even with using the recommended cable I have seen several that have melted as they were left wound onto a cable drum . If those had been 1.6mm they would have caught fire.
  11. First of all, it is not dry rot !! It is water damage over a long period of time. It is certainly a project if you decide to attempt it, but the first thing you need to do is find out where the water is getting in and sort that out. What you can actually see is just the tip of the problem. Once you start stripping out the damaged stuff you will find that the damage is much more, but not as apparent at the moment.
  12. If it is working !!!!! As long as the wind is not too strong, or the tide is not too high or too low , or the ramps work, or the chains engage with the drive wheels, or the navigation system is working properly ( I don't know why they need a nav system, the stupid thing is on two chains!!!!!!)
  13. Why are you telling me that? I live here I know where things are !!!! What you don't say is that Yarmouth is 14 miles away from Osborne House
  14. Why do you feel the need to use anything on the window rubbers? It is unusual for water to get in around them as they have a sealant inside which seals the outer rubber against the van wall. However, if you are getting water in, then it is most likely to be coming in elsewhere, and the usual suspect is the roof strap, or behind the window hinge. If you intend replacing the rubbers anyway, it seems a waste of time and money , as well as adding several hours cleaning up before fitting the new rubbers. It is worth noting that as you had a lot of IDL 99 coming back into the gun past the plunger you were using it in too cold conditions. All gun applied mastics need a minimum 10 degrees to exit the gun cleanly
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