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About Jaydug

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  • Birthday 06/01/1930

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Epsom, Surrey
  • Interests
    Caravanning, DIY
  • Towcar
    Citroen C5-X7
  • Caravan
    Avondale Rialto

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  1. Not at all. You don't lower the steadies until the van is level. Yes! It's quicker and easier to use a drill to raise and lower the legs. Wind each leg until it touches the ground firmly, then give it a quarter turn.
  2. My previous Citroen was a Mk2 C5 Exclusive Estate which had self-leveling HID headlamps. They also swivelled right or left with the steering. My present X7 settles for corner lighting which operates when the steering is on either lock.
  3. My guess is that it's the Scotchlock causing you trouble. If you use a bulb place one contact on terminal 6 and the other wire on the vehicle body. With the car's brake lights on, terminal 6 should light the bulb.
  4. How is your relay connected to the car's electrics? Check that you are live on terminal 6 of the relay when the car's brake lights are on. If by chance you're using Scotchlocks, look closely at them.
  5. My caravan has a fuse module under the front seats. One of them is for the brake lights. If you have similar, it might be worth looking at it.
  6. I agree! I go for four months every year and although there's a set of Eurolites somewhere in the car, I've never fitted them. For the little bit of driving I do after dark, I just roll down the beam using the wheel below the dash board.
  7. I have no idea where in Buckinghamshire Conorandlucy live but CIT Camping (the first company of the four listed by Wunny) couldn't possibly be reached in 15 miles. However, I can vouch for CIT camping's workmanship. I live only 9 miles away from them so no distance to visit their shop and workshop. They've done a couple of jobs on my awning over the past two years. The first was to make the corded edge 6 inches longer by inserting a tapered piece in the mud wall and just a couple of months ago, to replace a zip in the end panel. The first job was £40 and the 2nd was £90 - but then it was a heavy duty zip nearly 4mtrs in length.
  8. Unless the linings have become detached by the van being left standing with the handbrake on, the linings should be ok. It's the functioning of the brake shoes and cables caused by the lack of lubrication that needs addressing. Also the hub bearings and the coupling head/hitch require looking at.
  9. My choice was a 230x150mm cash box. It's bolted into the floor of the bathroom cupboard. With the electric vacuum cleaner piled on top of it, a casual 'caller' wouldn't see the box. It's essential to have a reinforcing plate on the underside otherwise the coach bolts will just tear through the floor. Also fit the bolts with the round head below and the nuts in the box. See Job No 8
  10. Maybe this will dispel the myth. I fitted the Fiamma door lock shown in the third post down in 2012. After the holes are drilled and the bolts partially inserted, they are sealed with mastic. Also between the van wall and the lock brackets there is a rubber gasket, also coated with a smear of mastic. If the job is done with care, moisture couldn't possibly penetrate. After seven years, see the damp meter result on the inside wall board below the holes
  11. You should fit a load meter then you'd know exactly how much you were pulling in
  12. The fan unit works off 12volts taken from the caravan battery although a few caravans appear to be fitted with a mains transformer. If it's not working it may be a fuse. On the other hand there's a pcb fitted close to the fan which may have a fault. Finally the switch on the top of the fire cover may be faulty. The wiring which connects the selector switch to the pcb has a push-on connector at both ends. It might just be that one of the connectors has become partially dislodged.
  13. I've fitted a Fiamma door handle. In my case it helps me up and down the step safely, but also secures the door.
  14. It would have been helpful if you'd mentioned the type of heater you have. However most vans use the Truma Trumatic gas/electric heater or one of its Carver antecedents. You shouldn't really work on them unless you can describe yourself as "competent". To remove the unit entirely requires a lot of work. First the gas needs disconnecting and properly sealed off. If you are not replacing the unit, the flue pipe needs removing. That exits in the roof, although the earlier models exhausted through the floor. After the unit is removed, there's quite a large hole to fill. Then the three pipes will need removing. The one in the foreground is the flue pipe. The other two are the blower pipes. Finally there's the thermostat wiring which will be no longer required.
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