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About Fenester

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    Over 1000 posts

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  • Interests
    Sea Fishing, History, Photography, Geology
  • Towcar
    Nissan Terrano
  • Caravan
    Lunar Freelander DSL

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  1. A solution is to use UPV moulding from a window supplier, I believe it is on sale at Wickes too. It is light, easy to cut and looks good. Tape nearly always curls with age and in my experience sticking it back is a losing battle. Using decorators cork as an adhesive works well with this material.
  2. Try a blast of air from a foot pump to the burner area. Cobwebs are a common reason for a gas fridge not lighting.
  3. As long as it stops that's fine. You could probably get it to stop quicker with adjustment but "if it ain' t broke don't fix it" it is the beat approach as you might mess it up! there are fiddly things pressure switches. It will vary with voltage by the way if you are on battery and the charge drops off or on a site with heavy load.
  4. Service history for vans out of damp warranty period has questionable value. It is serviced prior to sale and all is well, particularly damp free declaration, then whats the problem? When you consider most servicing is checking things work rather than value add preventative maintenance then the "walk away" advice for no service history does not seem that valid.
  5. yes.. it 's not great is it,..... weird circular zones that make caravans face each other and a noisy busy road.
  6. You would think when building hard-standing pitches making them level would be somewhat sensible?
  7. Having been on a ferry in a force eight back from Bilbao on the old Pride of Bilbao I think your are lucky your ferry crossing got cancelled. It is just one of those things; BF really have your safety and comfort at the heart of this decision; those smaller ships they are using this time of year are lively.
  8. The price is the one that the purchaser is willing to pay.
  9. They leak like caravans as the coach-built ones use the similar techniques and frequently use older methods not newer ideas like Alutech or equivalent. I have seen some really bad rot in one particular Motorhome.
  10. On all the time because the alarm will run the battery down within a week or so,
  11. Lubricate the filter thread with cooking oil or Vaseline when fitting. These are a "pig" to unscrew without cracking it. Use the handles of a pair of pliers and apply gentle turning pressure but not too much. just keep the gentle torque on for a few seconds and then they usually move - well hopefully!
  12. Generally it will be the limit on the car or the tow hitch, if after market fitted, rather than the caravan limit that will determine the nose weight as these are in the majority the lower ones of the three. In real terms often the nose weight has to be less than its ideal value due to car or tow bar. You have to operate to the lowest of the three. so, load to the highest permitted nose weight figure of the three and this will give you the greatest stability within the constraints of the various limits. My drift here in answering the original question, is that mostly the nose weight limit of the caravan with "run of the mill" private vehicles is not a figure that is the one that gives an issue so if you don't know it then it is not a big problem for you.
  13. Often chargers provided by manufacturers inside the control boxes have insufficient ventilation for cooling; they then over heat and die. If you replace a unit it is best to mount it somewhere else with a good supply of air. These units get very hot and it is best to mount them with a gap between the unit and any supporting surface with off set blocks or the like.
  14. I have a Witter after market tow bar. The car doesn't know it is towing electronically. It is very stable and tows well in this old fashioned non complicated method - cost effective too as the Ford bar was nearly double in price. Parking sensors bleep in reverse but one doesn't reverse for long periods so I can live with that, The blind spot sensors work OK with a Caravan on the back too surprisingly.
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