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  1. I agree entirely with what you say, particularly as the Range Rover was originally designed and built with towing in mind. As I have stated above, the standard question asked is "Has the vehicle been modified in any way from the manufacturer's standard specification?" As the "standard specification" does not include the tow-ball, then adding one is classed (by the insurers) as a 'modification'. Last year my next door neighbour purchased a Range Rover, and when he informed his insurance company of his change of vehicle, they asked him if he would be towing his caravan with his 'new' vehicle, as he had previously informed them that he would be towing his caravan with his 'old' vehicle when he insured that with them last year. He replied "Yes", and they informed him that his RR had, in their eyes, been 'modified', as it did not leave the factory production line with one fitted. He was informed that there was no additional charge for this, but that the "modification" should be recorded on his policy. That is surely being pedantic in the extreme, but as my neighbour put it - If it keeps them happy and does not cost me, then they cannot use that as a potential 'loophole' should I ever have to make a claim! Regards, David
  2. The standard question that is asked by most UK Insurance Companies is "Has the vehicle been modified in any way from the manufacturer's standard specification?" In the case of certain Land Rover products the addition of the Detachable Tow Bar is considered a 'modification', as this is not part of the vehicle's 'Standard Specification' Regards, David
  3. Some years ago I built into a small plastic box two switches and a flasher unit. This enabled me to run the side/tail lights from the caravan battery, and/or use the rear indicators as 'Hazard Warning' lights should the caravan have to be left on the public highway during hours of darkness. I attach the circuit below - just in case anyone is interested. Regards, David Safety Light Box. pdf
  4. Do NOT simply "daisy chain" one earth cable to the three earth pins ( 3, 11 & 13) when wiring the 13-pin socket. Ensure that each pin has a separate 2. 5mm2 earth cable feeding it from a good earthing point on the vehicle body or chassis. Have a look t the CC Advice given here, and at this wiring diagram Hope that this helps. Regards, David
  5. Could be an opportunity for you to design and take out a patent on such an accessory John. Judging by the number of caravanners who simply cannot do without applying heat to their wet hair in order to dry it, you could become a millionaire! Regards, David
  6. Click here to download the Regulations on fitting Gas Water Heaters in caravans. Hope that this helps. Regards, David
  7. Assuming that you are referring to a mains operated (240v) hair-dryer, you could only use it when not on an EHU if you have an inverter (which converts 12v. DC into 240v. AC). Even using the hair-dryer on its lower 1200w setting via an inverter would mean that the inverter would take a current in excess of 100 Amps from your battery! - and that is neglecting the efficiency of the inverter and the current taken by the fan motor in the hair-dryer. Not to be recommended The current (Amps) taken by any electrical appliance can be calculated by dividing the power (Watts) by the voltage on which it is operating. On 240v. a 1200w hair-dryer will take a current of 5A (1200/240=5), whereas on 12v. a 1200w. hair-dryer will take a current of 100A (1200/12=100). You can buy 12v. DC hair-dryers like this one, but such a dryer will have a very low heat output. Further, it will take a current of 15A, but most cigarette lighter sockets in caravans are rated at a maximum of 10A - so no good there then! A few years ago we had arranged to visit the local pub for an evening meal with some friends in the next caravan, and when I called for them I found the neighbour's wife lying on the floor next to the fixed double bed. I thought that she had collapsed, and as I prepared to dial 999 for an ambulance, her unconcerned husband quickly explained that she was drying her hair by putting the blown air heating on 'full', closing all outlets except the one in the bed housing, and placing her head next to this in order to dry her hair Well that's one solution that you may consider using when not on EHU! Regards, David
  8. I entirely agree with you Harry. I was replying to your suggestion that the OP should consider "moving the wires feeding the rest of the caravan onto the terminals of the mover, at the mover control unit". Regards, David
  9. Totally agree with you Rodders, as 4mm2 cable is rated at 37A. According to the handbook for my Truma SE mover "each motor can take a current of up to 60A when operating at maximum output, e. g. when driving the caravan up a steep ramp". Overheating of the cable would not present a serious risk as the maximum current would only be taken when traversing a steep incline and then only for a very short period. It could however cause a voltage drop at the mover motor, which would decrease the power available. Regards, David
  10. If you are missing something Beagler - then I am too! As far as I am concerned it is much easier and quicker to simply remove one quick-release clamp from each battery post as opposed to getting out the spanners in order to release nuts and bolts. Both pairs of supply cables to my motor mover and to the caravan electrics are connected together at the quick-release battery clamps, and kept tidy by having some spiral cable wrap applied to them Regards, David
  11. If the mover was installed with an isolator switch (usually key operated) fitted in the feed from the battery to the mover control unit input terminals, your suggestion would not be a good thing Harry, as the isolator switch would then disconnect the battery from everything in the caravan. Regards, David
  12. Did the 4. 8 have twin turbos though? Regards, David
  13. Our Truma SE is now on its third 'van and still going strong. I always make it clear to our dealer when asking for a PX price that it will be removed. The final deal-breaker is to get the dealer to change it over FOC - which they have agreed to do each time rather than loose the sale! Regards, David
  14. That's exactly what I was going to try and do Beejay, but didn't have time today. It does seem rather anomalous, as the DOT Info. Sheet states one thing and the MOT Tester's Manual another. If you find it before I do, please pop up a link. I think that the "without the driver removing his hands from the steering control" bit is rather an overkill, for as you quite rightly state, the driver frequently has to remove a hand from the wheel in order to operate many controls that are used in normal everyday driving. Regards, David
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