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Rodders53

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About Rodders53

  • Birthday 18/10/2007

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    near Bedford
  • Make & Model of Towcar / Toad
    Ford Galaxy 2.0 Ecoblue, Titanium X, 8 spd auto
  • Caravan / Motorhome / Static (Make and model)
    Bailey Pegasus 2 Rimini
  • Year of manufacture (Caravan / Motorhome / Static)
    2012

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  1. The OP hasn't. They are using the pressure reducing mains adapter. I have one and use it when on suitable sites and have never had any issues on multiple caravans. It's very unlikely to be the cause of the steam issue. BUT all symptoms point to a leak. Especially the water pump cycling on/off with no water being drawn. (It's necessary to have the pump on as it impedes water flow otherwise). See the Truma manuals for details but there is a "condensation tube" from the combustion chamber to the outside world via the cowl (at the bottom). I can't comment on how much is normal in operation (any 'off grid types' care to comment?) Enough condensate could account for both the steam venting and water dripping at the bottom awning rail. But the need of the pump to keep re-pressurising = a leak to me. One possible is an internal leak of the water tank into the burner area where it is evaporated by hot parts. It may be worth quickly checking the drain-down air admittance valve with the clear pipe from the hot water outlet of the tank first for water loss, as that maybe another source of water loss (grit and stuff can mean it doesn't close fully and then leaks water the other way. Some (myself included at one time) assume this is a pressure relief valve (that is incorporated into the yellow drain-down part, according to the Truma manual - so look for drips from that for proof that the water pressure is too high = 2.8 bar or more). You may well need a competent person to check over the system as gas is involved. But if the tank is leaking it will not be a cheap fix unless there are some simple o-ring type parts that have degraded? Manuals and parts diagrams are available from online suppliers.
  2. and no doubt other earlier threads on the same Q.
  3. Water heater will use gas to heat the water, and 12V to operate the igniter/gas control system plus the water pump. Find and read the manual(s) for the appliances fitted and, if possible, the generic manual for your Bailey. You may need to remove an external plastic cover to operate it on gas. Other responders: Space/Room heaters won't be needed in August, surely?
  4. https://www.mercedes-benz.co.uk/passengercars/mercedes-benz-cars/models/gle/suv-v167/specifications/equipment-packages/towing-package.html it is quite clear there. It's the car maker and/or towbar maker who needs to confirm it's acceptable to use the stabiliser on the vehicle not AL-KO!! The 3004 stabiliser hitch with handle up is roughly equivalent to a normal hitch. As long as you have a well-loaded caravan, with the correct noseweight, and tyre pressures you're unlikely to notice much difference between handle up and down on any tow vehicle. (I've accidentally driven like that more than once and am also sure one caravan had the handle pushed up by the handbrake handle issue. Only on finding the handle up did I think, "Oh! So that's why I felt the lorries moving the caravan a tad"!) Your caravan has ATC which - provided MB have wired the permanent 12V feed correctly (check that, too?) - will help control any unwanted swaying more than the 3004 can. I'd suggest you contact your supplying car Dealer and Mercedes Customer Service urgently as they should also be able to speak to AL-KO technical direct. You may wish to draw their attention to the Audi similar (if not identical) towbar ring system - albeit from another caravanning site not CT https://www.practicalcaravan.com/news/can-you-tow-a-caravan-with-an-audi-q7 But I doubt you'll get a definitive answer to that very quickly, if it will change from "no" to approving the use with the friction pads. Removal of the stabiliser hitch is a possible for a conventional hitch (and sell the stabiliser or keep for the future). (Ask MB about greasing their special ball in that situation).
  5. That is a friction stabiliser and was part of an optional pack. https://www.tilshead-caravans.com/2015-sprite-range Another option for it was the AL-KO ATC anti-sway unit that actuates the trailer brakes, and it might be that the F-i-L is suggesting you "need". The answer is neither is essential if the caravan is properly loaded, a sensible noseweight and tyres properly inflated, ride level or nose down slightly etc.,. How long have you been towing for? B+E training course or Club towing course?
  6. 491kWh in 12 weeks (2016 hours) = a continuous load of 240 Watts or so. A fridge might well have an average load of 150 Watts in use and a large or older fridge freezer could easily be that 240 Watts base load? Eight three-day weekends might add up to 24 days (576 hours) of occupational use: lights, TV, kettle, chargers? https://www.money.co.uk/energy/guides/energy-efficient-fridges-and-freezers Is the metered usage really that far out? The nearly 21p per kWh is high, but site may be able to show they aren't making a profit on it?
  7. As with all these things: ALL your available meter reads with dates are needed... You do read meter on every visit, so can see if the site's read is accurate, I trust? kW-hours matter most, not the total cost; but unit rates have risen sharply since last year and commercial rates (site is a commercial supply, not domestic in all probability) perhaps even more? So do check the unit price last year to this bill's rate. Is the caravan on a plug / socket system or hard-wired supply from this meter? Are there any accessible external mains sockets that other site users might plug into to strim or mow grass? Are there any external lights? (Stuck on, PIR triggered?) Even things like clocks on cookers, TVs and microwaves left on use a bit of electricity if not switched off / unplugged. Fridge on or off when away from site? (Your text is very unclear on that, to me). If off and door left ajar then switch the caravan off via the mains incoming switch in future (as you leave/arrive back noting the meter reading both coming and going - taking a picture). I expect you may turn the water and gas on/off every visit, for safety, too?
  8. Search for and read the threads on here regarding the Avtex twig aerial and it's limitations and possible fixes. You sound handy enough to work through some at least of the findings in the past. Best option, though, is to 'rip it out' and start again. It's what Coachman did in the end.
  9. * Sealed Lead Acid 'unspillable and unvented' battery types are OK to be fitted in an unvented internal locker, battery tray and tie-down fixing straps highly advisable. Same sort of location for the control electronics. So close to the axle(s). The on/off mover isolator switch acts as emergency stop (in unlikely event) so ideally should be get-at-able via a locker door or similar. * {The sort used in golf carts, mobility scooters etc,.,} The battery needs not be that large a capacity as long as it can supply the needed start current, unless the van is especially heavy and/or you plan to move it a lot/long distances up steep hills. Truma movers recommend Optima YTS 55Ah spiral wound ones, but do be seated when you read the price
  10. has a wiring diagram from the 2009 manual that will be more or less the same for your 2006. As it has high level lights, there will be low level ones (likely 21W/5W dual filament brake/side-parking).
  11. Just as likely a stuck impeller on the pump. Or even a push-button issue. A multimeter should help fault-finding if the fuse is not the issue? Have a pop-bottle with pink rinse aid in on standby if all else fails
  12. AL-KO extended neck towball is required to allow full clearance and articulation of the stabiliser hitch on the ball. See the Stabiliser manual https://caravanchronicles.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/aks-3004-handbook.pdf and there have been many threads on here about it. There's two elements to it: one clearance from the rear/fixings and two the height of ball above the horizontal part of the neck. (The pics in the manual show it better than I can write words to explain).
  13. Use the Freeview Professional prediction tool: https://www.freeview.co.uk/corporate/detailed-transmitter-information and a compass. It'll be more accurate with respect to transmit radiation patterns and interference from other transmitters as it uses the data from our UK Spectrum Planners (Ofcom, BBC Distribution and Arqiva) than any App that has used ?????? to produce such information.
  14. https://www.tacomaworld.com/tirecalc?tires=185-65r14-195-70r14 suggests the diameter increase is 32mm (16mm radius). The wheels may not sit well in the caravan wheel arch that big. Mover block is anything between 15 to 20 mm set https://www.powrtouch.com/roller-gap-adjustment/ and may be different on other brands of mover. But the mover rollers WILL need re-setting with the larger diameter tyres. I suggest you search harder for the correct size tyres to be shipped to your favoured local fitter? https://www.oponeo.ie/tyres/general/185-65-r14 or https://www.tyres.ie/tyres/185-65-14/200+201+202 etc.,. Then it's unlikely the mover will need to be adjusted as the gap will be very similar.
  15. CMC CL guide document for reference: https://www.caravanclub.co.uk/globalassets/pdfs/content/about-us/setting-up-a-cl-guide.pdf Show the CL owner it? CCC rules don't matter if it's a CMC CL site but search their website and or ask them direct if it's important? NB that document states that the exact specification and requirement will be from the Local Authority and/or Water company, possibly - not just what the CMC want? {e.g. some may require an air-gap instead of the NRV}. NRVs are required in lots of applications and are precisely to prevent backflow into the water supply. I've seen both types of connectors on CMC Club sites - bib-cock with and without a variety of adapters. NRVs are often built in to such taps. Hoses not for a very, very long time on the drinking water taps (they did have them some time in the past if memory serves me well). Also seen the 'air gap' type (more often on the waste water and chemical emptying points taps, those are frequently with a short hose attached - that is crushed by repeated bending and stop water flow, but that's another topic). Often not on the drinking water taps of the same site. Services pitches often enough seem to have the hozelock type adapter on or are 'bare' screw thread. Perhaps other users leave them behind, when I find them attached? I tend to use my own, blue plastic, one and save the other one to refit on departure. Bare screw brass threads rapidly 'kill' the blue 'rubber' hosepipe ends by eating away bits of them I used to find. I most often use a wide-bore plastic pipe to fill nowadays. (32mm waste pipe, kept for that specific purpose).
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