Jump to content


Approved Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Rodders53

  • Rank
    Over 1000 posts
  • Birthday 18/10/2007

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    near Bedford
  • Towcar
    Ford Galaxy 2.0 Ecoblue, Titanium X, 8 spd auto
  • Caravan
    Bailey Pegasus 2 Rimini

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. That's all caravanners completely then. All caravan site taps - clearly labelled 'drinking water' - are outside. But I note you say "can be" which does mean not all are?
  2. 3.6 V drill-drivers: Only ever owned one a Bosch NiCd, Christmas present from the in-Laws - possibly around the time we started caravanning, so a long time ago. Pretty useless for most things as I recall. I've never wanted to replace it which maybe says enough?. I think they are also fixed speed often enough which is bad. A decent variable speed trigger and low-speed gearbox is essential for control in winding the steadies imho. Start slow and speed up then slow as the pad nears land (or home if winding up) - then its no 'wrist problem', careless could mean an abrupt stop, st
  3. 4.5 N is 0.5 N less than the Ferrex unit you own. https://www.aldi.co.uk/grey-3-6v-cordless-screwdriver/p/802375402793100 220 rpm vs 210 of the Bosch. I recommended you a 12V Lidl drill in that other thread https://www.lidl.co.uk/en/p/diy/parkside-12v-cordless-drill-bare-unit/p37765?ar=3 2-speed gearbox. £30 with battery and charger. The chuck is now removable cf the one I use and 0-320 rpm cf my 0-400. Mine doesn't specify the Nm in the booklet I have for it, but it can have a kick if you are careless
  4. As the gearboxes on these cheapo drills are likely made of the same nylon - it may be 50:50 which gives first But it's all down to having some degree of mechanical sympathy when using a power tool - or manual winder for that matter (mine is "designed" to undo wheel nuts with ability to have a 90-degree arm https://www.primaleisure.com/product/1140114 ) Lithium cells if stored at least partly charged will retain power for a long time. Certainly enough for occasional caravanning use. (Self discharge of 1-3% per month Wikipedia tells me ) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/
  5. Be aware that the hose and waste lengths required are very variable, depending on the site(s) you go to, where the tap and drain is located on (or near) the pitch you choose and where the inlet/outlets are on your caravan. 10m of supply is probably OK for most pitches, but may be too short on others. Some share water and waste stations in-between two pitches so you may find you're 'wrong handed'. I have an extra water hose extension, and will get more rigid push-fit 32mm waste pipe when I need more than I currently carry with me. Something to ens
  6. Best to measure it / get a sample from the caravan to be certain. 20 years later a lot of bits may not be to the original specification.
  7. I'd never use an impact driver for the steadies. The 20V Parkside one I have is too 'uncontrollable'. Great for their intended purpose though. Mine undid a screw on a panel that I'd been unable to by hand or any other power tool. It will drive in screws into materials (e.g. wood) that a normal drill-driver just mashes the head. Similarly it undid bolts in a rotting swing frame with ease. So undoing wheel nuts - when they are 'too tight' - would be fine but not doing them up, IMV. As for normal drill drivers applying "huge torque to damage the floor" one would have to
  8. The quoted -70 Celsius figure happens to correlate nicely with the sublimation of Carbon Dioxide (aka dry ice) -78.5 C. So can be transported from freezers in packs surrounded by that stuff. Pfizer have got special 'suitcase' transportation packs to do exactly that according to the news outlets in USA. I really hope they defrost the stuff before injecting it, too!
  9. First thing is to get the battery charged up as most pressure switch systems with external pumps are highly voltage dependent. That could take 24-48 hours if it was flat. Next is what warranty work was done? It could be related to the issue(s)? If so back to the dealer? Check all the tap strainers in the spouts - they may be partly blocked from 'muck' in the pipes and HW tank scale that has moved. This might fool the pressure switch into cutting in and out.
  10. Not at the sensible Lidl prices. Aldi don't sell Parkside but another 'own' brand. I looked due to this thread and was very shocked at the prices some like to charge. The 12V one in store soon was on offer at £80 less 1p as a kit with drill, battery and charger! https://www.lidl.co.uk/en/c/diy/c1698/w2?ar=3 only has a 12V bare plus battery/charger from Parkside. This is the latest incarnation of the one I use, although chunkier due to the rubber moulding / grips. A Black n Decker 18V hammer drill is the only other one. NB Lidl (at least used to) sell extra batter
  11. It's easy enough for some of us here to select the correct wire sizes to repair... Don't assume others have that capability and ready access to suitable bits... Looking at that damage it's simple enough but not something I'd be rushing to do in the cold and damp. Mover grit roller needs replacing too (been flailed to the base metal). Would all this be covered by caravan insurance (except the tyre, of course)?
  12. The correct terminals to join wires depends on the cables concerned... cross-sectional area (to big/little for automotive crimps) current and voltage ratings... etc.,. I suspect that a flailing steel tyre reinforcement has done more than just cut the wires cleanly enough to use butt crimp, solder splices or similar joints and a foot or so of cable will be needing inserting to make good... So not necessarily the simplest of jobs. But that's pure guesswork on my part, until the OP posts pictures of the damaged cables.
  13. What wiring diagrams are publicly available are in your service handbook. The one linked to in an earlier post is MY 2012 (page 2 bottom rhs) Pegasus 2 https://www.baileyofbristol.co.uk/owners-manuals-and-service-handbooks/ has the 2010 P 1 manuals. But caravan wiring is pretty simple/basic so it should be easy enough to sort ou by tracing both directions. Mains from PDU to appliances / sockets is typically 3-core bn/bu/gn-y in a white sheath 1.5 sq mm. Main inlet is orange sheathed and likely to be 2.5 sq mm. You'd be wise to replace the whole length rather than splice a r
  14. If the old one is branded Parkside I'd recommend you buy another from Lidl, who sell Parkside tools. All their current drill drivers come with lithium cells. Cheap as chips but pretty well made. The 'other' marque from Aldi felt less well made to me. YMMV My go to unit is a small lightweight 12V one PABS12A1 which is circa 7.5 years old and still going strong on the original battery that lasts ages. Used for all sorts around the house including wall fixings into softer brick and block and the caravan steadies. I also have a hammer drill-driver and impact driver from their
  15. Have you read the manuals at all? https://orbit.brightbox.com/v1/acc-jqzwj/Swift/handbooks/pdfs/000/000/282/original/2019-Touring-Caravan-Quick-Start-Guide-web.pdf and the main generic manual may have extra info https://www.swiftgroup.co.uk/owners/handbooks With only two the Valves under cooker are likely for Cooker and Fridge. Another may well be near the space/water heater boiler? (As Swift state in the manual, they may on a manifold or near the appliance(s). Swift may colour code the handles to aid identification: Oven/hob Green Fridge Blu
  • Create New...