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About Rodders53

  • Rank
    Over 1000 posts
  • Birthday 18/10/2007

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  • Gender
  • Location
    near Bedford
  • Towcar
    Ford Galaxy 2.0 Ecoblue, Titanium X, 8 spd auto
  • Caravan
    Bailey Pegasus 2 Rimini

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  1. Not always. My local Ford dealership (in Cranfield) called in their tame towbar fitting company and charged me their cost price on our current car. They (towbar people) tried to dissuade me from full fridge/charging wiring due to the smart alternator but I insisted they fit it (no extra cost was involved, either). I paid the dealer not the fitter. The Ford factory fit deployable bar came fully wired on the last Galaxy. The one before that my previous Ford (Lowestoft/Ipswich) dealership just refused to get involved. Eventually I went to expert NTTA fitters in Norwich as they co
  2. Only if you intend to go of the (mains electricity) grid. They are often more expensive, too when marketed for 'caravan/motorhome' use. Occasionally some TVs with 12V 'wall wart' power supplies can be used on the battery socket (though there are 'perceived risks' in doing so when hooked up to mains as the charger-psu can exceed 14V).
  3. It's an adapter to allow car-style plugs (cigar lighter sockets) for mobile phone chargers, 12V TVs, and other devices to be powered from the wall socket. https://www.leisureshopdirect.com/electric/12v-appliances/12v-plugs-and-sockets/2-pin-sockets/square-2-pin-and-coaxial-socket-beige My tyre inflator has such a car-style plug, as does a clip-on 12V fluorescent lamp we used to hang in the awning. I've still got one of those 2-pin plugs in my caravan useful bits box and I made my own (long) adapter lead up to use when we had a caravan with that polarised 2-pin type of socke
  4. That is/was always a possible with the 12S permanent live and even today with 13-pin. Olden days with a Car-OFF-Caravan switch then you left the switch on Car and there was a load (fridge light/electronics, lights etc.,.) on. Modern caravans may or may not auto-select the Car when connected up. So I'd suggest safest to disconnect if leaving long term and you have a permanent 12V feed to be 100% safe - and switch the fridge off to save the leisure battery!
  5. You've wired a 13pin socket to a now deprecated 12N/12S standard. RLA o/p 2 is a switched charging circuit and will sort of do the job of charging the leisure battery - but is NOT suitable for ATC; which you don't have now but a future owner of your car might... The TEC3M could chatter and apply near-full caravan brakes during self-test as 12V is lost and returns depending on the way it senses the 12V supply input(s). A bit of a problem for an unwary new future owner? Pin10 live = caravan relay (habitation) coil energised and switched which connects pin 9 to lei
  6. A relay is almost always instantaneous. For pedants/absolute accuracy, one can get time delay units. Such units are more expensive and not needed in this application. The TEC3M relay should supply 13-pin socket pin 9 from relay o/p 4 Constant Supply! https://www.thetoolbox.uk.com/Wiring-Guides/TEC3M-Caravan-Battery-Charging-Relay-30-Amp If it's from relay o/p 2 move it across!
  7. So the miniscule control current. Normal as I said and why one needs to turn the fridge OFF in storage.
  8. Where are you measuring the fridge 12V supply? Only across the heater terminals proves it's live from any source (leisure or car supply). Otherwise the 12V lamp and electronics are sometimes fed via the leisure battery until the habitation relay is actuated. Sometimes (often?) not isolated by the Master 12V switch! https://caravanchronicles.com/guides/understanding-the-leisure-battery-charging-circuit/ may help explain the wiring and relay switching for fridge and charging? Note Pin 9 (13 pin plug) only connects to/charges the battery when the fridge/habi
  9. Sargent might know the expected / design current draw in that state? Otherwise it's a matter of connecting a meter in series with the battery and actually measuring it! Test the old battery capacity via a known load (car light bulbs?) for a known time. See http://www.batteryfaq.org/ Section 4. The voltage at 11 am was still surface charge, so needs removing, anyway. My last (no name) battery was much older than yours before the BCA cooked it (when a cell failed, probably). The eBay seller claims to be sending by Parcelforce 24 - but wet Led Acid are pro
  10. IF they are magnetic stainless screws then a magnetic screwdriver might help; but much SS is non-magnetic Also try a long, thin, screwdriver pushed to go under the screw head as a sort of lever while turning with the pozi driver ... it sometimes works. Or if you can something like dental floss or fine fishing line to wrap round the screw, under the head, to pull it out (screwdriver likely needed as well). It all depends on access to the screw head/threads area. If really loose than a flexible clawed grabber tool might pull them out e.g. https://www.cromwell.co.uk/shop/s
  11. https://www.baileyofbristol.co.uk/owners-manuals-and-service-handbooks/ Would reading the handbook help you? Page 49.
  12. Charger will be a BCA unit in the top of the Consumer Unit (RCD/MCB and 12V fuses). It's been covered numerous times on Unicorns and Pegasus etc.,. and the design by Bailey has been unchanged since some time before yours so the Pageant threds you've looked at may be the same.
  13. No good for cheapskates like me on PAYG and not wanting to run up a bill
  14. Not tried it on "assist" where it will steer for me, but have it on often enough for fun in warning mode. Easy on off via stalk end button. I'd agree that a sudden swerve cause by the system might induce a trailer sway so probably unwise... As a warning, no issue, though. I know my Blind Spot system can 'see' my towing mirrors, but I can ignore the leds in the mirrors readily enough. My car also has some voice activated controls as did the last Galaxy... the tap to listen button is somewhere on the steering wheel buttons by the telephone controls... on the last c
  15. Stripping it down and seeing what is possible is the obvious 'solution'. https://www.powrtouch.com/changing-an-actuator-motor-evolution/ show how... PowrTouch are selling the motor, gearbox and spindle as an assembly. https://www.powrtouch.com/product/evolution-actuator-motor/ Manual actuation is simpler and less to go wrong. It may be possible to convert to manual engagement if that would suit you?
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