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About Rodders53

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    Over 1000 posts
  • Birthday 18/10/2007

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  • Gender
  • Location
    near Bedford
  • Towcar
    Ford Galaxy 2.0 Ecoblue, Titanium X, 8 spd auto
  • Caravan
    Bailey Pegasus 2 Rimini

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  1. Or simply wanted a guaranteed hardstanding pitch? Did that once not realising all the grass pitches at the site we wanted were closed. Not true. They keep adding them during site refurbs. I'll let you count the exact numbers https://www.caravanclub.co.uk/uk-holidays/useful-information/types-of-pitch/ Correct. You have to cancel the first site before you can book the alternative (with the, perhaps small, risk someone may nab the vacancy while doing so).
  2. That happens everywhere, always has, always will. Many Calor gas cylinder resellers won't do anything but a like-for-like swap of bottles - possibly as that makes their accounting / ordering simpler. AIUI only the full Calor Dealer / Agents must (should) obey the swap rules and even then there's some official Calor paperwork to fill out to complete the process.
  3. The control panel with red/green lights and on/off switch for Carver heaters was for the Gas side only. Mains element would be separate switch (GE / Rapide models only - easily identified by the white box with red print, red reset button and mains flex on the unit poking out from the polystyrene jacket). http://nationalcaravanbreakers.co.uk/carver-cascade-2-gas-only-caravan-water-heater-ref-conwmet The gas only version would have been all encased in polystyrene, like this http://nationalcaravanbreakers.co.uk/carver-cascade-2-gas-only-caravan-water-heater-ref-conwmet NB That electric 'water heater' switch was often on the Power Distribution Panel/Consumer Unit. The elements often fail but the plastic cover removes to allow access to the mains wiring including the thermostat, overheat cutout and element so making diagnosis simple for a competent electrician type. This forum has covered the subject before so a search and or use of google should find useful stuff?
  4. For the battery to burst open means significant heating - most likely is due to a faulty cell. When one battery cell shorts the chargers will try get the remaining 5 up to the same 13.8 V (or higher) by pushing current in which results in heating and boiling off water, concentrating the acid, with maybe some hydrogen sulphide fumes (rotten eggs) until something goes pop (over current on the charger output fuse one would hope, but in extremis... ). When my last leisure battery failed I smelt something when in the caravan on the drive (we were using it as a shower room, long story). I found the battery was warmer/hotter than expected. Other have had the CO alarm go off due to the fumes. "Maintenance free" batteries still have liquid electrolyte in them and this can evaporate with constant charging, but checking and topping up is not always easy. I only charge the battery on mains at home for a few days every month or two if not being used / lived in. My Bailey is also only 13.8 V and I will occasionally use a smart charger to get it up to 14.4 V. Some battery types (AGM/GEL) may need different charging voltage regimes. BUT as has been said this new a caravan the charger needs checking over. IF a new battery was supplied by the Dealer (not stated as such in the Original Post) then that was possibly faulty. The battery terminals may have been damaged by the fumes (corrosion) and need cleaning/neutralising as a minimum.
  5. It'll be a Truma Ultrastore in that caravan probably. It's all explained in the manuals if the new caravan owners can be bothered to read them. On electric the thermostat is preset and fixed to 70C. That's hot but 10l of that mixed with cold gives a comfortable shower time of a certain of length (as shown and explained in the manual). On gas the temperature can be set to either a variable dial temperature or a 2-position switch (50 & 70 C iirc), depending on exact installation era/model. The manual should cover it. Other water heaters can and do differ. Install thermostatic mixers if concerned. It's been like this for over 25 years of caravanning for me and many others.
  6. Probably a fairly early Carver or Whale inlet? Looks like it may have been mounted under the floor of the caravan from the scrap of plywood attached? It looks a a bit like the Superfill system for filling the flush tank on Thetford toilets? which Avondale caravans had on at least some models and is mentioned in their 1992 handbook - see the pinned topic above? https://www.whalepumps.com/rv/product.aspx?Category_ID=10011&Product_ID=8&FriendlyID=Superfil-on-board-tank-fill Almost certainly you'll need to replace the inlet with a more modern version unless you want to haunt some caravan scrap yards in a hunt for one? It may be possible with some new inlet housings to re-use the pump if in good order? Some minor modifications of the pipework and wiring may be needed if it needs the position relocating?
  7. Not all vehicles use the Clock Time data from RDS or DAB to set the car clock. Some can't even do it properly from satellite when they have sat nav built in. {Yes Ford - I'm looking at you!} I'd second fitting an alternative TV aerial. But having ordered one in the dealer may not be keen (unless they can cancel the order quickly).
  8. As described the roof antenna (satellite dishes are antennas) is self-seeking fed via this satellite box. That box may well include a satellite receiver inside and have sound and video outputs - hopefully via a hdmi socket but it could be various types, depending on the age of the equipment. But it may just be the control box for the dish aiming side; in which case it will have a satellite style F-plug/socket output (or, rarely, two) to connect to a satellite receiver of your choice (within certain limitations). Make and model of the box and dish/dome would help - as would photographs of the box and connections on it. But find and read the manual that came with it - it should all be in there, too!
  9. Many UK 13 A sockets are single pole, but not all. (Some even have no switch ) My home has Volex flat plate Double Pole switched sockets or unswitched sockets fed from Double Pole isolators (e.g. washing m/c, dishwasher). I buy and fit DP switched sockets whenever I add / change sockets in a caravan or most homes I've had (this one came with DP courtesy of the Builders, though). I've yet to check if the Bailey switched sockets are SP or DP. I keep meaning to . Black live, white neutral is correct in the USA for example, with green or green/yellow for earth. Once upon a time I'd have had a lookup table for the different countries' colour codes to hand for when EMI exported medical equipment (CT scanners).
  10. Getting a full week on many of the more popular CC sites and dates is a near impossibility and has been so for many years now. Both before and after the 'rolling year' was introduced. Weekends are the biggest problem, but sometimes you can get spaces but will need to hop from awning to non-awning to serviced on different nights. Not something we'd really want to do. Nothing to do with Covid as far as I can tell.
  11. https://www.powrtouch.com/product/single-axle-battery-wiring-kit/ Classic (all models) 10 sq mm battery cable https://www.powrtouch.com/product/evolution-single-battery-wiring-set/ Evolution 16 sq mm I'd suspect other volt drop sources first... Connections corroded or loose, switch contacts poor.... even a fusible link issue. Duff/failing battery is another highly likely problem. ALL will require methodical voltmeter use with the mover operating under load to diagnose. That will need two people to do it safely. BATTERY 95%+ certain
  12. You need employ a good mobile service technician or caravan dealer service department who can probably sort out what is wrong and if it can be repaired easily. As you can't describe the problem well enough for us to understand what is wrong it's impossible to advise accurately. The only relays in a caravan are to do with isolating the caravan 12V side for when towing and allow the fridge 12V side to operate and also to charge the leisure battery. If this 'habitation relay' as it's known is faulty - stuck (welded) contacts it could likely be replaced with a suitable alternative by a competent technician. MCB (fuse) trips on excessive current (L-N shorts). RCD (earth leakage) trip on L-N imbalance, often due to mineral insulated heaters breaking down to the earthed jacket (on fridges, room and water heaters). If repair isn't possible a new consumer unit and charger-psu will be required - and need to meet the current 18th Edition IET regs. https://orbit.brightbox.com/v1/acc-jqzwj/Swift/handbooks/pdfs/000/000/152/original/Sprite_Service_Book_2005.pdf?1472743568 has the wiring diagrams for your Sprite 2005 Only competent electrical diy types should open the consumer unit to investigate (with the mains input unplugged and the 12n/12s plugs and 12V leisure battery isolated).
  13. OP @Niceguyhas yet to return to read the thread, and it's 24 hours later (more or less).
  14. Search the forum... Check the screw size with a known nut to be certain of the size.
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