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About ChrisUK

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  • Birthday 08/11/1945

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  • Towcar / Toad
    Mitsubishi Outlander 2017 diesel auto
  • Caravan / Motorhome / Static (Make and model)

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  1. How are you charging it. In the van ? from A separate car battery charger? If it is the van's power unit via a hookup, have you left it something else switched on? I doubt it is the charging that has made any difference. You can buy cheaply power meter to plug in to check, and also to use it around the house. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Nevsetpo-Monitor-Consumption-Electricity-Calculator/dp/B07H1ZFVFM/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=power+meter+plug+in&qid=1621075951&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzMVc2UDBNMjEyMDVBJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTcxMDYy
  2. I agree the 100m wait on starting out a journey, for a reading is unfortunate, anyone found a way around this?
  3. There is another thread on this common problem "Ford Ranger" The problem seems to vary depending upon the individual car and towbar wiring. My Outlander for example driving solo does not charge the car battery after a few miles, so it is never fully charged. I think this is now very common, try sticking a volt meter into the ciggy socket and drive around solo. A work around seems to be to drive with the sidelights on. My Outlander auto does not have stop start fortunately, but it would not be a good idea to come to a halt with a very hot turbo when towing and the engine stops.
  4. You are correct and this did bother me at first. However after using Tyrepal for about 6 years I have never had any problems. The advantages of seeing what the tyres are doing far out ways this concern in my view. I would not be happy without them.
  5. That's something I have yet to try. Solo, side lights, or, headlights both push the volts up to above 14 volts as monitored by my "plug in the ciggy socket" tester. Actual volts across the battery terminals is 0.22 Volts higher than the socket.
  6. My car has a current sensor on the negative terminal, however, load does not seem to be the only factor. I'm sure the heated seats are a bigger load than the LED side lights, but the seats do not trigger the higher charge rate. I suspect the the lights switching is probably monitored though the CANbus system to boost the charge rate. In theory the fridge on 12 volts should be a much bigger load than almost everything, I have yet to try that theory out.
  7. Just like mine. What car is yours? Seems a common problem I have found other examples on Honest John. I'm sure that the LED side lights take less current than the heated seats, but the heated seats do not trigger the charging, so the Controller must be looking at which loads are on rather than the actual load. The effect of smart charging on mine for 3 years 4 months, seems to have reduced the cranking current (CCA) to 350 to 370 amps instead of the battery spec of 620. My battery is OK most of the time, but did fail to start the car last week. Leaving my Ctek charging the battery
  8. Further to the above, 130 mile drive from Essex on motorways, did not go above 12v, but end of day the auto headlights came on and volt went up to 14+ volts. I now see that if I drive with side lights on (instead of day running lights) the volts go up to 14. So maybe a work around? However sidelights are not very bright. Fogs as well? Had my car checked, charging cct OK, battery OK but low on charge, they recommended a long charge, 48 hours. But did not push to sell me a new battery.
  9. Double AZ jabbed and no side effects, same for my wife.
  10. This thread has lasted well. I originally assumed that the TV was a caravan TV and therefore would have to be nominally 12 or 24 Volts DC. Perhaps not. I would go on line to Samsung for the TV's spec which should give details.
  11. Same with me. Big difference between wet road and hot dry roads
  12. I did have a curve, which I will try to dig out, which shows how much the cooling effect reduces as the volts reduce, it is quite marked.
  13. Not my rig unfortunately, it came from the other thread.
  14. Same problem on this thread. The smart charge trap. (I did not expect the picture, just the thread). Under normal driving my Outlander runs at 12Volts once the battery is charged and this is too low to operate the fridge relay in the car.
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