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About matelodave

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Ely, Cambridgeshire
  • Interests
    Sailing, walking, caravanning, reading & drinking beer
  • Towcar
    2018 2. 0 Tdci S-max 180ps Powershift
  • Caravan
    2015 Bailey Unicorn 3 Cadiz

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  1. yep I always do, coz this can be the result if you dont especially if you are using a high wattage device like a lawnmower or iron.
  2. not quite right. However you do need a multimeter/voltmeter to measure the voltages at the controller You should at least read battery voltage (12.6 or so) between the red & black wires that go to the battery - if you don't then you've got a problem between the controller and the battery because the controller isn't connected to the battery for some reason (blown fuse somewhere?). You should also read at least 12.6-13.4 volts on the solar panel side possibly more if the sun is shining, but as the battery will drag the panel voltage down you'll probably only read the same voltage as the battery , however if the battery isn't connected to the controller or the controller is faulty you should see around 18-22v The only way to properly check the panel output is to disconnect it from the controller and measure across the wires from the panel - you should see around 18-22volts.
  3. Have you read and understood this, checked all the wiring and made sure all the fuses are intact https://media1.svb-media.de/media/snr/208/pdf/manual_en_2011-03-03.pdf Who installed it and when, has it ever worked
  4. what sort of static mobile home - AFAIK if it's a holiday home/static caravan as opposed to a proper residential mobile home then VAT is payable. Likewise even with a residential home, you still have to pay VAT on some of the stuff inside it. Are you going to buy it in the UK and ship it to Portugal or have it sited over here as that may have a bearing on what has to be paid and to whom. You really need to find out the rules and regulations rather than just getting opinions and hearsay from members of this forum. https://www.gov.uk/guidance/vat-treatment-of-caravans-and-houseboats-notice-70120
  5. Further to the above, my present S-Max (2018) has all the wiring incorporated into the loom and it just plugs straight in so the wiring info wont be of any use. My previous S-Max (2009) had the additional wiring which did actually plug into the existing loom however an aftermarket Westfalia wiring loom also required an extra relay as well (IMO a right royal bodge)
  6. If it's anything like my s-max then it's one wire that plugs into the loom by the control box. Try a d get hold of the fitting instructions as it should be an easy diy job I've got the s-max info but it's probably not the same as the kuga. You a welcome to a copy though. Just pm me with your email address and I can send you a pdf of it
  7. Yes it's pain there's an additional connection that has to be ordered but it should,t be expensive. I've had several factory fitted ford towing electrics on my various s-max's and it just a simple plug and play, so hopefuĺy the kuga should be similar. On my car is easy enough to diy it if you can get hold on the installation instructions but there's a bit of dismantling to do
  8. There really isn't anything else you can do now except replace the controller or investigate getting it repaired. I dont know whether Truma have a repair or replacement system which might work out cheaper than just replacing it but there are plenty of controllers available on t'interweb I'm sure that there will be plenty of recommendations from others on a suitable replacement if you dont want to replace it with another Truma controller. Have a shufti here https://www.photonicuniverse.com/en/catalog/list/category/solar-controller there's at least one that looks suspiciously like the TRuma unit and significantly less cost. MorningStar & Victron are also well regarded
  9. Bailey fit a fuse in the wring loom which is located in the rear bed box, taped into the loom close to floor by the side of the fridge. You have to feel around for it as it quite tightly taped in Check that it hasn't become dislodge with stuff being shoved in there although I'd suspect that if the fuse wasn't present (dislodged or blown) then you wouldn't be measuring 12.5 at the controller terminals. How are you determining that the panel isn't charging?. Is the controller light flashing? Have you checked the current from the controller as well as the voltage across the terminals. Perhaps you battery is knackered if it's not being charged
  10. The shelves in most caravan are a sandwich construction of two thin sheets of 3 or 4mm ply and either a foam or egg-box like interior. Unless they are fitted to a structural member behind the caravan wall panel then it's unlikely that they'll support 4kg of TV hanging off them. Has the OP actually weighed his TV - it looks like more than 4kg to me
  11. Unless you can spread the load by fitting a decent reinforcing pad behind the panel I would not do it. TBH I'd be dubious about even fitting a pad behind the panel. The bracket that you are contemplating has a very small fixing footprint and would therefore concentrate the whole weight of the TV in a small area. I wouldn't even contemplate using a bracket like that unless it was fixed with very substantial screws/bolts into something like a brick or concrete wall. I certainly wouldn't use it in a caravan or thin walls (like, ply, plasterboard or sheetrock) In the end it's your decision but he general advice from those who have responded is don't do it, so are you hoping that someone will say it's ok
  12. I wouldn't. Most caravan wall panels are only 4mm plywood and there is nothing to screw into or spread the load. At best the screw will pull out and possibbly take a lump of wall out as well However others may have different view.
  13. So its nothing to do with the towball but possibly a problem with the electrics. I'm assuming that the green light of which you speak is the ATC warning light in the caravan A frame - please clarify. Does the ATC still do a self test when the caravan is plugged into the car? Is the Kuga fitted with Ford towing electrics or an aftermarket kit
  14. The cylindrical "noggins" as you so quaintly put it are ferrite beads which are on the cables to help reduce interference and crosstalk in the cable caused by voltages induced into the screening. They are probably just better quality cables than the cheap & cheerful ones that don't work.
  15. We live on a very long no through road (over a mile long) which has no speed restrictions so it's 60mph. The van has to be hitched and unhitched on the road as we take it in forwards. Visibility is good so we aren't causing a hazard We do our best to avoid causing an obstruction although those who live opposite don't help when they have 2 or 3 cars/vans parked opposite our gateway. Although I let them know them we want to get in or out they usually don't take any notice so we have the difficulty of shuffling the van back and forth rather than getting it in and out in one go If people have to wait then so be it.
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