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Big Tim

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About Big Tim

  • Rank
    Over 1000 posts

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Criccieth, Gwynedd
  • Interests
    Church, Caravanning, Photography, Classical Music
  • Towcar
    Kia Sorento
  • Caravan
    Bailey Senator Arizona

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  1. Hi


    just read your articles on Du Letty Benodet.  I very much enjoyed them.  Not least because your history seems to parallel ours.  We went to do Letty regularly during the late 80,s and 90's when our son was growing up.  We had many good holidays there with some friends.


    interestingly we revisited just a year ago (40th wedding anniversary nostalgia).  This time our grandson was there too with his parents (their 10th anniversary).  The changes were good... the new pool complex etc... but the price was greatly hiked... and we weren’t on premium pitches.


    i notice you went to church while there.  We didn’t but our Christian Faith is central to our lives.


    interestingly, our first holiday as a married couple, our honeymoon, was in Criccieth.


    Keep writing.


    john (Thomson)

  2. Hi I've been working on our 'van today and I was wondering whether the motor mover rollers might need replacing. I've attached some pics - not very good I'm afraid as the wheels were on the 'van.
  3. My wife and I spent a VERY demanding afternoon getting our 'van off the loose slate stones area where we keep it in our garden. The van is stored at 90 degrees to the drive. We struggled to get the mover wound on by hand and had to resort to brute strength. With the help of gravity and 2 hours of sweat and struggle we finally managed to push and pull it around sufficiently to be able to hitch it to the car and pull it off. When we get back I have decided to get the mover changed to manual actuation - on each wheel (not cross actuation). At least then there won't be any more actuation motors to fail. Thanks for all the comments. Regards Tim
  4. Whilst I am not keen on going over to manual actuation I have just checked my records and in the 7 years since fitted one of the actuator motors has failed and had to be replaced on 5 separate occasions already. Both motors were both last replaced in March 2013. We have not used the 'van much since then, although it has been annually serviced, so this repeated is failure is VERY annoying.
  5. I thought I'd give an update on our motor mover situation. I spoke to Powrtouch this afternoon. After a wasted couple of hours taking their advice and swapping the actuation motor leads at the control box and carrying out other "tests" P/T technical support concluded what I already knew that the actuation motor had gone AGAIN. The options are now (1) Change the fauity actuation £80 for the motor plus £85 for a P?T agent to come out and change it, ie, £165 (2) Change the mover to manual actuation, with a power bar, fitted by a P/T agent at £250 I find it bitterly ironic that having had the power actuation in the first place because we're not getting any younger we're now faced with paying a huge chunk of money to change it to a manual system or to have yet another acutation motor fitted with the possiblity of further failures. In addition both of the above options come with a 2 week wait for the P/T fitter who would be travelling from the Liverpool area. !!!!! We live in Cricieth, North Wales, approx 100 miles from Liverpool!!! This means that to travel to a planned family event, later this week, with the 'van, I have to wind on the offside motor mover roller with an electric drill, hook up the 'van and then wind the move off again with the drill before we can even get started. Hopefully I'll be able to find a pitch I can reverese onto at the other end or we'll have to repeat the pantomime with the electric drill when arriving and leaving there. Oh and, of course, I'll have to repeat that fiasco when we get home again. !!! So much for the convenience of motor movers????
  6. Thanks for the 3 helpful replies. I think I will talk to Powrtouch on Monday and discuss the possible options with them. Thanks again. Tim
  7. I had a 2010 Powrtouch Heavy Duty mover with actuation motors fitted to our Bailey Senator Arizona (2007). I had a repeated problem with the actuation motors failing. Powrtouch replaced several of these under warranty and said that if one of the motors failed again in the warranty period I could opt to have it changed to manual actuation. We have not been away in the 'van for a couple of years as we've been having major renovations done to our new home and living in the 'van for some of that period. I tried the motor mover last week as we are hoping to go away in it next week. One of the actuation motors failed to operate. I checked the wiring, etc without any success. I did wind it on that side of the mover by hand using the tool and a cordless drill. The mover is now out of warranty. This leaves me with several questions: (1) How much would it be likely to cost to get the actuation motor changed? (2) Is it easy to do as a DIY job? (3) How would it be likely to cost to change the mover to manual actuation? (4) How easy is it to change the mover to manual actuation as a DIY job? Increasing age and a failing knee joint meant that we do rely on the mover, particularly to get it out of our garden where it is stored at 90 degrees to the exit. However, as we hope to change the 'van eventually I don't want to spend a fortune on it. I'd welcome any insights or experience of these problems that any one has. Thanks in anticipation Tim
  8. Hi All Thanks again for the advice. I've now sorted the problem with the jockey wheel but as it was not what some had envisaged I thought I would post what the problem actually was and how I sorted it as it might help someone else in a similar predicament. The problem proved to be that the lower cut-out slots in the upper half of the jockey wheel post had become slightly splayed making it impossible for the upper part to slide down past the internal clamp. Firstly I jacked up the front of the 'van with my trolley jack under the hitch and then lowered the front steadies to hold it securely in that nose-up position. I then wound down the lower part of the jockey wheel until it came off the internal thread. The lower half of the jockey wheel still did not have sufficient clearance to come out of the tube and so I deflated the pneumatic tyre of the jockey wheel and the lower half then fell out onto the ground. I was then able to remove top part of the jockey wheel upwards. I applied "corrective knocks" with a club hammer to the slotted end of upper half of the jockey wheel to get it back it into a more circular cross-sectional shape. The internal clamping plate fell out when I completely removed the jockey wheel and I noticed its lower flange had, also, become slightly bent so I bent that back into shape with pliers and then reinserted it in the tube. Finally,I re-inserted the upper and lower halves of the jockey wheel into the upper and lower end of the tube respectively and then wound them together on the internal thread. The jockey wheel post then moved smoothly up and down in its tube and I was able to position the jockey wheel securely in its clamped position on the ground and obtain the correct nose-down position for the 'van I wanted. The problem would not have arisen with the old-type of side-clamped jockey wheel and like many others i find the centre jockey wheel to be a RETROGADE step with no obvious advantages and MANY DISADVANTAGES.
  9. Thanks Graham. I assume that is "yes" to the jack under the hitch!! Tim
  10. Hi All Thanks for the replies. In the light of day I can see what the problem is a bit more clearly. The top section of the jockey wheel pole has come above the clamp and the hole with the internal clamping plate is too tight to get the top section back below the clamping plate. I'm now thinking that I may be able to solve the problem if I use my trolley jack to raise the front of the 'van enough to pull out the bottom section of the jockey wheel pole and then see if I can get top part in whilst the bottom section is out. Would it be okay to jack the front of the van with the trolley jack under the hitch. Thanks in anticipation.
  11. Today we were moving the our Bailey Senator Arizona onto a newly handstanding area in our garden. When levelling the 'van I pulled the jockey wheel tube up to allow me to leave the 'van nose down to help rain run off. However, the jockey wheel tube has now jammed in the hitch and will not move down. I can undo and tighten the clamping handle but this does not help. I have tried tapping it down with a hammer but to no effect. It is a centre jockey wheel by the way. Oh for a side clamped jockey wheel. Any suggestions, please.
  12. Thanks Easy T. I may well take your advice and get some gaffer tape to replace the duct tape. ANY recommendations for a brand/ONLINE supplier of gaffer tape as there seems to be some confusion between duct and gaffer tape when I searched online. Out here in the beautiful sticks nearly everything has to be ordered online!!
  13. Thanks for the replies everyone. I do recognise that there may be internal damage behind the wallboards but have to balance the cost of having the wardrobe and wallboards removed to investigate/repair this against the value of the 'van which is probably c£4-5K or less. Even if I wanted, cannot move the 'van out to a dealer for repair as it is hemmed in by all the builders' equipment in our front garden. There is no way that I have time to carry out the work myself as we are already involved 150% (!?) in completing the renovation of our bungalow 4 rooms to completely decorated from bare plaster, 3 floors to sand and oil, 20 metres of bookshelf to put up, curtains to hang, etc, etc. We're still tempoarily sleeping the 'van at the moment. Regarding duct tape removal I am aware of the problems but needed to seal the rails against further damage quickly and that was I had to hand. I have found that a rag with a little petrol usually removes the backing/adhesive
  14. Thanks for that advice AJGalaxy2012. Encouragingly after 24 hours of fan heater cycling on off on the top shelf of wardrobe and dehumidifier running on wardrobe floor, with wardrobe door CLOSED, the damp meter readings are already dropping. Worst spot down to 50% from 70%. It's been raining for a lot of that time too so the black polythene on the roof seems to be in the right place. I'll probably get the mobile AWS engineer back to reseal the rails asap but finding a dry day in North Wales in November may be aproblem
  15. Thanks for all the replies, we're VERY grateful for your thoughts and experiences. The 'van is a 2006 model and yes the culprit does seem to be the seal joining the back panel and roof. (We had to the front rail sealed, under warranty, due to damp being found when the 'van was only ONE year old. Bailey then only authorised resealing the front rail and we used a fan heater and that DID cure that problem. The rear corner affected now is inside the wardrobe, which is part of the rear bathroom, and so it would be VERY BIG job to strip out the wallboards as the wardrobe would have to be dismantled first. I've got a dehumidifier running in the bathroom and a fan heater on the shelf in the wardrobe near the corner with the high readings. We will probably go with just having the rails resealed, by the mobile engineer, dry out the wall from the inside and hope that we have caught the damp before it has done too much internal damage. I will be doing some regular monitoring with my Protimeter Mini! A local caravan dealer estimated c£300 (unseen) just to reseal the rails but said that there might be internal damage too. Thanks again for the comments. We're still interested to hear further comments. Regards Tim
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