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NoFixedAbode

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About NoFixedAbode

  • Rank
    Over 100 posts

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Currently: southern Spain
  • Interests
    Cycling, photography, snorkelling, poker.
  • Towcar
    Chrysler 300C CRD (2006)
  • Caravan
    Avondale Eagle (2000)

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  1. Yes will do Dave, thanks. I hope it proves you wrong Andy, and thanks for the tip Stevan for next time.
  2. On my last trip during the summer here in Spain, the fridge finally stopped working on gas after a period of deterioration in performance, and I had to go buy a coolbox and a bag of ice every couple of days. Not convenient. It was looking like I might need to shell out £600+ for a new fridge, especially considering the age of it. Taking it out and inverting it didn't work this time, although it did on a previous occasion when I felt it wasn't as cold as it used to be. I'm preparing for another trip, so after a Youtube video, an exploded diagram and a bit of internet research, I felt ready to tackle it. A test revealed it still gets cold on mains elec, so the cooling system still works fine. Installing a new regulator at the gas bottle seemed to help a little, the supply pipe appeared clear, so then onto the jet and the flue. I cleaned the little jet piece in a bath of lighter fluid and blew it out with compressed air from a bike pump, checked the flue was clear, put it all back together and - joy! - fridge became really cold again quite quickly. The jet hole is so tiny that the slightest build up of foreign matter there will have an effect on the amount of heat produced. I feel like I just won £600! So basically it just needed a service - lesson learnt.
  3. Thanks Stevan for reminding me - I meant to test it on 240v but forgot. I ran it for a few hours today (about 23 deg ambient) and ice was forming ok in the freezer compartment and it felt nice and cold there, but the fins inside the fridge and at the back were not very cold and hot respectively. Maybe I need a longer test to be sure, but looks like it's better on 240v but not perfect.
  4. My almost 20 year old fridge finally gave up this summer during a trip to the coast. It was around 30 - 33 outside daytime and about 25 inside the fridge. So I turned the gas off and bought a cool box and a daily bag of ice instead to ensure a cold beer in the evening! I did the fridge inversion trick about 18 months ago and that worked very well, so I tried it again at the beach but there was no noticeable improvement this time. I checked the burner was clear and tapped the pipes but the radiator at the back was barely warm. Normally it's too hot to touch. I doubt it will be worth spending time, energy and money on reviving it again, but just in case I throw this open to you experts out there reading this. The reason I ask is that I was slightly shocked to see that a replacement 3-way will cost in the range £600 - £1200. Jings! (as we say in Scotland). There is quite a bit of corrosion to the pipework, so it looks like it would need a complete overhaul rather than a tweak.
  5. It's a Carver 5500 Turbo Fanmaster from 2000. Recently it has been a bit temperamental in starting up, but always successful in the end. As I recall the normal sequence goes like this: Push down knob and turn 90 deg to ignition position. Sound of igniter is heard, followed by green light on knob indicating small flame is lit. If cover is off, flame can be seen through the small window. Turn knob more anticlockwise, and whooshing sound is heard as main flame lights up. Warmth! I have just driven up with the caravan from the south of Spain, and as soon as I crossed the border into cold and foggy Scotland, the heater refused to light up. Typical, just when I need it most! Now the sequence is like this: Oh wait, I just tried it to remind myself and it works! Hallelujah! No need to use the oven any more to keep hypothermia at bay. So it must have been the extreme humidity after all, I wondered if that might be the issue. It was about 85% and nothing was drying. But the glorious sun is out here in Edinburgh now! Ed
  6. It's a Carver 5500 Turbo Fanmaster Space Heater. I've always been aware of the gap under the heater, where you can actually see the ground underneath from inside, if you look the right way. Not very helpful when trying to keep warm inside in cold weather. Through the hole protrudes part of the heater, the air intake. I'd like to better insulate this hole if possible. Any thoughts? Or is it a safety feature? Obviously I don't want to do anything dangerous. And I realise you're supposed to have adequate ventilation, even though it has an air intake and a flue. Meanwhile I'll read the manual over a cup of coffee tomorrow and see if the answer lies within that.
  7. My 17 year old Electrolux 3-way fridge was becoming increasingly poor, barely getting down to 10 degrees even in at gas setting 5 in favourable conditions. I read about others having success with inverting it to clear a blockage caused by ammonia crystals and perhaps rust particles, so I decided to give it a go. Happy to report success here too, it now is sitting at under 5 deg at gas setting 2 with ambient temperature round 20 deg. Much, much better and working as I'd expect a new fridge would. It took about 6 hours to uninstall it, invert it, give a really good clean and revive the seals with olive oil, then reinstall. The seals need replacing but when I found out you can't get spare ones, I refurbished instead.
  8. If anyone else needs to know, here's the method I discovered: Pull the black tab down towards the ground. Nothing happens, but it bends a hidden catch just enough to prise the lens and surround off with a screwdriver or something. Mine came off with an alarming crack but was intact.
  9. Just to conclude the tale here, it eventually turned out to be a broken earth wire near the plug. Only a very specific wiggle showed the lights flickering, otherwise they were off 99% of the time. Extremely frustrating until it finally revealed itself and then the solution was clear.
  10. And yes it needs a wash - that's further down my list.
  11. It's not obvious how it comes off to put a new bulb in. There's a black thing on the left but pressing it in or up doesn't seem to do anything. Brute force would break the cover I'm sure, so hoping someone knows the trick.
  12. Looks like it will near impossible to find a matching alarm, so I'm going to buy a modern standalone alarm with remote and install that instead.
  13. Thanks, I'll try Sargent. And it should work fine without the PP3, that's just in case of malicious battery disconnection. I tried the fob reprogramming procedure a few times but the red LED was a bit dim and didn't behave as per the instructions so I reckon the box and/or fob is kaput.
  14. Wondering if someone has a 2002 model Concept KEL alarm made by Keen Electronics as I'm looking for one because mine has died. Mr. Keen told me he no longer makes alarms, so looking for a working box with key and fob in order to do a straight swap into the existing wiring plug. Or if anyone can comment on the feasibility of fitting a different and newer alarm into the existing wiring (sensors: PIR, strut, tow wiring) then that may be another option, however I have a feeling that would not be straightforward. The old alarm saved me once that I know of - someone came in through a window and evidently left once the alarm sounded. Unfortunately my second bit of bad luck involved an obviously very determined thief who ignored the alarm stickers, overcame the door security bar, ripped out the siren when it sounded, defeated the laptop security cable and then prised open the safe and stole my camera within. I want to live on a planet without people like this. ..
  15. Still no fix after many lost hours, and slowly driving me crazy. I need to drive next week so a bit concerning. Turns out there IS power to the socket, seems I didn't have a good earth for the meter originally. Every wire position checked and rechecked. All fuses in car and caravan look fine. During messing around I DID have the lights working for a brief while, but cannot replicate that. Considering the worst case scenario - spend another couple of hours swapping back to old socket and broken plug. They worked fine. At least they did. Moral of the story - if it isn't broken, and even if it looks ugly, DO NOT FIX IT!
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