Jump to content


Approved Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About NoFixedAbode

  • Rank
    Over 100 posts

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Currently: southern Spain
  • Interests
    Cycling, photography, snorkelling, poker.
  • Towcar
    Chrysler 300C CRD (2006)
  • Caravan
    Avondale Eagle (2000)

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. It's a Carver 5500 Turbo Fanmaster from 2000. Recently it has been a bit temperamental in starting up, but always successful in the end. As I recall the normal sequence goes like this: Push down knob and turn 90 deg to ignition position. Sound of igniter is heard, followed by green light on knob indicating small flame is lit. If cover is off, flame can be seen through the small window. Turn knob more anticlockwise, and whooshing sound is heard as main flame lights up. Warmth! I have just driven up with the caravan from the south of Spain, and as soon as I crossed the border into cold and foggy Scotland, the heater refused to light up. Typical, just when I need it most! Now the sequence is like this: Oh wait, I just tried it to remind myself and it works! Hallelujah! No need to use the oven any more to keep hypothermia at bay. So it must have been the extreme humidity after all, I wondered if that might be the issue. It was about 85% and nothing was drying. But the glorious sun is out here in Edinburgh now! Ed
  2. It's a Carver 5500 Turbo Fanmaster Space Heater. I've always been aware of the gap under the heater, where you can actually see the ground underneath from inside, if you look the right way. Not very helpful when trying to keep warm inside in cold weather. Through the hole protrudes part of the heater, the air intake. I'd like to better insulate this hole if possible. Any thoughts? Or is it a safety feature? Obviously I don't want to do anything dangerous. And I realise you're supposed to have adequate ventilation, even though it has an air intake and a flue. Meanwhile I'll read the manual over a cup of coffee tomorrow and see if the answer lies within that.
  3. My 17 year old Electrolux 3-way fridge was becoming increasingly poor, barely getting down to 10 degrees even in at gas setting 5 in favourable conditions. I read about others having success with inverting it to clear a blockage caused by ammonia crystals and perhaps rust particles, so I decided to give it a go. Happy to report success here too, it now is sitting at under 5 deg at gas setting 2 with ambient temperature round 20 deg. Much, much better and working as I'd expect a new fridge would. It took about 6 hours to uninstall it, invert it, give a really good clean and revive the seals with olive oil, then reinstall. The seals need replacing but when I found out you can't get spare ones, I refurbished instead.
  4. If anyone else needs to know, here's the method I discovered: Pull the black tab down towards the ground. Nothing happens, but it bends a hidden catch just enough to prise the lens and surround off with a screwdriver or something. Mine came off with an alarming crack but was intact.
  5. Just to conclude the tale here, it eventually turned out to be a broken earth wire near the plug. Only a very specific wiggle showed the lights flickering, otherwise they were off 99% of the time. Extremely frustrating until it finally revealed itself and then the solution was clear.
  6. And yes it needs a wash - that's further down my list.
  7. It's not obvious how it comes off to put a new bulb in. There's a black thing on the left but pressing it in or up doesn't seem to do anything. Brute force would break the cover I'm sure, so hoping someone knows the trick.
  8. Looks like it will near impossible to find a matching alarm, so I'm going to buy a modern standalone alarm with remote and install that instead.
  9. Thanks, I'll try Sargent. And it should work fine without the PP3, that's just in case of malicious battery disconnection. I tried the fob reprogramming procedure a few times but the red LED was a bit dim and didn't behave as per the instructions so I reckon the box and/or fob is kaput.
  10. Wondering if someone has a 2002 model Concept KEL alarm made by Keen Electronics as I'm looking for one because mine has died. Mr. Keen told me he no longer makes alarms, so looking for a working box with key and fob in order to do a straight swap into the existing wiring plug. Or if anyone can comment on the feasibility of fitting a different and newer alarm into the existing wiring (sensors: PIR, strut, tow wiring) then that may be another option, however I have a feeling that would not be straightforward. The old alarm saved me once that I know of - someone came in through a window and evidently left once the alarm sounded. Unfortunately my second bit of bad luck involved an obviously very determined thief who ignored the alarm stickers, overcame the door security bar, ripped out the siren when it sounded, defeated the laptop security cable and then prised open the safe and stole my camera within. I want to live on a planet without people like this. ..
  11. Still no fix after many lost hours, and slowly driving me crazy. I need to drive next week so a bit concerning. Turns out there IS power to the socket, seems I didn't have a good earth for the meter originally. Every wire position checked and rechecked. All fuses in car and caravan look fine. During messing around I DID have the lights working for a brief while, but cannot replicate that. Considering the worst case scenario - spend another couple of hours swapping back to old socket and broken plug. They worked fine. At least they did. Moral of the story - if it isn't broken, and even if it looks ugly, DO NOT FIX IT!
  12. All fuses that I could find in car and near after market relay kit checked out fine. I put the side lights on and didn't see any voltage at the tow socket. So hopefully that rules out a bad socket/plug pair that isn't mating properly. Next I'll see if I've missed any fuses for the relay kit. Meanwhile sun is too fierce so hiding inside.
  13. Ok thanks all, my first thought was fuses too, and also check the wires are correct for the nth time, then the multimeter if need be. I'm going to try to sort it when I have an open-ended timeslot - it could take hours, but hopefully just a few minutes if I'm lucky. Oh yes and I forgot to say the new UK sourced plug has the thin pins too, that's why I had to also change the socket. I'll be glad when this finally done and working, it's been a right Royal pain. ..
  14. Here's the short story: Fitted New Tow 13-Pin Plug & Socket - now nothing works on the caravan. Exterior lights I mean. That's it really, I triple-checked every wire is in the correct place on both sides. All worked fine with the old plug and socket. (But the body of the plug was broken and so there was no body and no safety catch to keep it in place). Long story: Existing plug body broke, so I removed it. All working fine, but didn't look pretty and no catch to keep it in the socket, although it never fell out. Bought a plug here in Spain a while ago, spent an hour swapping it over, plugged it in and. ...nothing worked without wiggling the plug. Turned out the pins of the new plug were smaller in diameter than the old, so hardly any contact in the socket holes. Spent an hour reverting to the old broken plug so i could drive legally. Grrr. Thinking the pins on Spanish plugs were smaller, I ordered a matched socket and plug from eBay UK and brought it with me on this trip to the coast to fit (while tanning at the same time ) After a couple of hours both plug and socket were swapped over. Heart sank when i saw that now nothings works - no indicators nor sidelights etc on the caravan. Before I start messing around with my multimeter, any suggestions? No panic (yet) as I am here for a couple of weeks before needing to hit the road again. Also why are there two diameters of plug pin? My tow bar was fitted in 2010, the caravan is a 2000 model, did they change the design since 2010? Why? And why was I not told!
  15. After many years of faithful service, my KEL alarm has gone on the blink. First symptom was that it wouldn't arm-off off with the remote fob, now it won't arm either. The red light on the fob works though and of course I also tested it with a new battery. I contacted the maker Keen Electronics hoping to get a new fob in case it was just that, they told me this model is now obsolete. So now I'd like to replace both the main box and the fob with used, but known to be working, equipment. It's a 2002 Concept KEL alarm, so if anyone has one I'd be interested. Or perhaps a similar model that would easily hook up to my existing wiring. Cheers Ed
  • Create New...