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  2. That was actually my point. The headline used to introduce the report is misleading. I'm glad someone took the time to read the report, as most these days only read and react to those "one liners"
  3. you cannot connect the output of an inverter or generator together. Because they produce am AC waveform there has to be someway of synchronising them. It might be possible to connect two inverters or two generators in parallel but they'd have to be designed specifically for the purpose and they'd have an additional sync cable to ensure synchronicity. An 800w microwave over will require a power supply capable of delivering around 1200-1400w to cope with the starting current. Even when used on a low power setting the unit switches on & off at full power but for shorter periods so although the average power is less the peak power requirement is still the same. The hair dryer will take 1000w, so your small generator will be inadequate to power either of them. an inverter producing 1000w will be about 85-90% efficient so will require 1100-1200 watts from the battery = 1200/12 = 100amps. which will require short stout cables connected directly to the battery to avoid voltage drop. You should be able get away with a 1500w inverter to power your microwave It's never a good idea to connect an inverter to the caravan EHU inlet, use it as a separate device plugging your loads directly into the inverter itself.
  4. 1) Definately not, DONT DO THIS 2) Switch off the charger whilst using the inverter, not the master switch, maybe trip the circuit breaker for the charger only or have a seperate switch installed. This can be made automatic with a simple relay with changeover contacts, the charger would only be powered from EHU, when on inverter it's off. Ive done this on my Bailey and it works flawlessly.
  5. I'm not sure of the construction of the 4050 but I assume it has similar features to a thetford toilet. My initial guess would be a lack of vent to the flush tank, air at the top of the tank heating up, expanding pushing the flush water down the tube. Try leaving the filler flap open and see if it still does it, if not, look for a blocked vent. The only other part that's involved will be an anti syphon valve but it wouldn't really fit the symptoms you have. AJG
  6. That is not true. IF the vehicle wiring is done correctly and a 12v supply makes it to the fridge not only will it maintain temperature it will actually freeze whilst towing, you do however need thick cables between battery and towing socket.
  7. Today
  8. I think there may have been to much ice build up in the fridge so must of defrosted it self?? Because I closed the door and checked and put temp up left it over night and cool again. May have to get the door re sealed.
  9. My honest and frank caravan dealer friend admits that the touring caravan industry is still stuck in the 70's, just like the car industry of that era sending our poor quality products to polite and timid customers. Until we kick up a fuss and refuse to accept poor quality construction, failure by dealers to carry out a PDI, and indifference in dealing with faults, nothing will change. I run a 400 unit storage caravan facility. I am fed up handing back expensive, poorly built and ill prepared products to dealers who lose interest once the owner has paid. I see brand new caravans with a complete absence of bulkhead bolts and screws, causing them to creak and come loose off the chassis, as well as countless water ingress issues, and brittle interiors and fitments. I speak with caravan owners and service engineers who find "faulty" water systems totally dry, meaning they have never been filled, commissioned or tested before delivery....Shameful!!! I myself I have owned two `German tourers [not faultless but built with some care] and would never hand money to British manufacturers who continue to take the mickey out of its customers! Remember what happened to British car makers who took their buyers for granted??? .... Bust!
  10. Yesterday
  11. I can't find anyone who seems to have this problem, when I refill the flush water a lot of it leaks into the toilet bowl. This doesn't seem to happen immediately as I can be watching through the window while I'm filling from the outside. I have previously filled it, checked it's alright and returned an hour later to find the bowl half full of pink flush water. Not only is it wasting the pink solution but also filling the toilet cassette far too quickly. I am quite mechanically minded but I can't work out what's happening. Has anyone else had this problem and managed to correct it?
  12. Where to get straight up honest insurance. It's as simple as that . Sean
  13. 2011 twin axles all have 165 R 13 C LI 91 fitted
  14. I would guess that the vehicle should have a valid Mot Certificate and without advisories that are not pending failure !!
  15. Evening all, We've taken the rather bold step into owning a caravan. I know nothing about caravans, but my wife bought a second hand one this week off Facebook on a whim. We need to start caravanning she said. It's a Sprite Europa 500 L. It's been sitting for a year on a campsite, and looks like bad language removed. Good price though. Initial inspection was it didn't smell damp, but we noticed some ingress from a damaged nearside kerb outside panel on further inspection after buying. The undersides, chassis and most of the shell look ok, and the damp interior panels seem to be salvageable and not too widespread . One spot, nearside front. That's it. Hopefully shouldn't be too much to fix, and will post some pics asking for advice once we get over to it again tomorrow. Will post a few more pics tomorrow and requests for advice once we start getting our hands dirty. Cheers,
  16. Most of the policies I have read contain a clause requiring the vehicle be in roadworthy condition, quite how rigorously they take it I do not know.
  17. Mine was VW/Westfalia kit but fitted by the dealer.
  18. I'm planning to go off-grid for the first time, I think I have the refillable gas sorted for fridge and heating and thanks to the forum search function and have learned a lot about solar. I would initially get a 100w flexible panel and a 20a (MPPT not PWM) controller in case I need to add a second panel coupled to a 110ah battery that would be connected in parallel to the caravan battery which is the same size. I will change all the 12v and 240v bulbs to LED. I will boil water and make toast using gas but would still like to be able to use the 800w microwave (max 8 mins) and Mrs Limecc the 2kw hairdryer (max 4 mins on 1kw heat setting). I'm unsure whether to get a 1.5kw or 2kw pure sine inverter but because of quiescent losses it will be normally turned off when not in use. I have a Hyundai 3kw and Clarke 700w suitcase generator, the latter is quite compact and might be useful to prevent excessive battery drain when using the high power devices. 1. If the inverter and generator outputs are connected together to the caravan mains input, will they work together ok or will they be in competition regarding the voltage regulation? 2. Regarding my Fleetwood PDU2 caravan charger/distribution unit, I understand I need to turn it off to prevent losses from it trying to charge the onboard battery, but if I do this won't I lose the 12v to the Alde heating and lights? Many thanks for your thoughts.
  19. Welcome and I had a Bailey Pageant 2007, the last of the Pageant range and great vans and completely dry. Hope you enjoy yours as much as we enjoyed ours,
  20. Hmmm. Given the choice I still prefer to stick with our on board facilities.
  21. Well, stoppit. Consider yourself told off
  22. I wish you were right. You'd think that a Euro NCAP 5* rated car would be really safe wouldn't you? Unfortunately there's so many more circumstances to take into account, two years ago my sister was killed in a Hyundai I20, a 5* rated vehicle, she was travelling at 43mph on a NSL country road, a Focus coming the other way had lost control and was going sideways down the road, it was dark, his car was black and his headlights were now pointing into the verge, they hit head on and she was killed instantly from a massive head trauma. All of the air bags went off, including the side air bags but they didn't help. Luckily the two children in the back were ok. The state of the car was shocking, you would think that being at 43mph on a country road would feel like a safe speed, but don't forget you're not in control of the car coming the other way, who might be doing 70mph and be on the wrong side of the road, all of a sudden there's a LOT of energy to dissipate. The crash tests are only done at 40mph and look at the state of the cars afterwards. My personal view now is that NO small car is safe on todays roads, if she had been a bigger car so her head was further away from the impact then she'd still be here.
  23. I used to have a similar unit in the car but it took an absolute age to get a mug full of water hot. It needed a 20 A supply at 12V and shall we say it was "less than efficient" and certainly not a practical alternative to a gas kettle in a caravan. The Clipsal plug top you illustrate is one of three common styles used at the time. In addition to the small (and flimsy) plug shown in the above image, some manufacturers also used a 2Amp domestic plug top rated at 240V AC but clearly this practice was potentially dangerous as the same plug could fit a 240 V system fed from the lighting circuit sometimes found in older houses.
  24. Recent VW Group vehicles have full wiring with factory-fit towbars.
  25. Avondale knew what they were doing pity after they went out of business, that the rest of the caravan industry didn't take over the idea..
  26. I always run the noseweight as heavy as possible - not exceeding any limits.
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