Whether you are starting out or are an experienced caravanner this article will tell you what you need to know. It will help you to buy a caravan that not only suits your needs and will, hopefully, give you many years of trouble free caravanning.
Throughout this article there are links to various websites and Caravan Talk posts that are informative. Just click on the coloured underlined type and provided that you are connected to the Internet, the linked site will appear.
If you want to search for a particular subject on the Caravan Talk forum, type a word in the search box in the top right hand side and press enter on your keyboard.
If you have any doubts or need advice on any subject, then post a question on the Caravan Talk forum to get it. We are all here to help. We all had to start the same as you and there is no question that is stupid, the only daft thing is not asking the question.
You need to know that even experienced caravanners make daft mistakes so don’t worry about any you make.
If this is your first caravan consider buying a used one and try to spend as little as possible because you may discover that caravanning is not for you. Consider the insurance cost and where you will store the caravan. Then there are the extras you might need such as an awning or other items as listed below under essential equipment.
If you have to restrict the size of the caravan due to tow car limitations an awning can double the usable floor area. You might even find that a dealer can supply a pre-owned awning. I have even been cheeky by saying that I would buy the caravan if I had a free awning. That has worked three times for me.
Caravans bought from a dealer will be more expensive than from a private seller, however, there is a benefit of extra legal protection and usually the dealer will have workshops in the case of any caravan repairs that might be required.
Find out where there is a caravan dealer / seller near you. I stress near you because if there is any warranty work required your travelling distance will be reduced in comparison to a distant dealer.
Typically, a top caravan dealership will be well-established, building up specialist experience over a number of years with sales and workshop staff who are fully conversant with all aspects of caravan ownership and, if possible, choose a dealer who is a National Caravan Council (NCC) member. To locate one click HERE. If the dealer is an NCC member they can offer services that a normal dealer cannot. These services include, warranties and guarantees, finance and after-sales servicing and maintenance.
Below are two links to posts on Caravan Talk where members have had concerns or bought a caravan they wished they had not.
If you phone a private seller to enquire about a particular caravan and they ask, “Which one are you interested in?” then be suspicious. It could be a dealer pretending to be a private seller who is trying to avoid their legal responsibilities.
If you are buying privately especially from someone who is giving up caravanning you might well be offered extra equipment including gas cylinders and awning. Take these items into consideration when offering a price.
Dealer warranties may not be honoured so it is advisable to pay the caravan deposit with a credit card. You will have a safety net for your money if anything goes wrong. Some sellers (dealers or private) will promise to fix any faults once a sale is agreed upon. If that’s the case, get it in writing. There is useful advice
The Sale of Goods Act is heavy reading but it is useful to know where you can find it.
There are many sellers ready to try to take your money for inferior and shoddy caravans and if a deal looks too good to be true, then it probably is. For example see the following:-
First time caravanner.. bought a lemon on Caravan Talk and learn from it. Perhaps the main lesson here is to go to collect your caravan rather than have it delivered to you.
You might be wondering which is the best caravan to buy. Caravan Awards 2019 – The Best of the Best! – Caravan News – New & Used Caravans & Caravanning Reviews – Out and About Live might help to answer your question, however, do research for yourself.
It is advisable to have the caravan insured before a test drive and before you tow it away after purchasing. Ask the insurance company if they can lower the premium price while the caravan is in storage since you won’t be using it. Caravan Insurance – Caravan Talk.
Consider buying a caravan cover in the future. The pros and cons are listed in the APPENDIX.
If you are new to towing be aware of Speed limits – GOV.UK. If you are travelling to another country their speed limits may differ so check before you go.
Consider joining a club. There are two main ones, the Camping and Caravanning Club and the Caravan and Motorhome Club. For a small annual fee, you get many benefits such as customised caravan insurance, cheaper ferry crossings and perhaps, special deals for pitches on their own sites. There are also numerous small special interest and single-marque clubs many of which are members of the Association of Caravan and Camping Organisations – ACCEO.
Propane bottled gas will provide adequate gas pressure down to minus 25º Centigrade.
Butane bottled gas will provide adequate pressure down to approx. +15º Centigrade.
A caravan wider than 2.3 meters will need a commercial vehicle to tow it in the UK and the maximum legal caravan body length is 7 metres. (Length excluding the drawbar / a-frame).
Towing mirrors are a legal requirement. (See APPENDIX).
Let the buyer beware
Perhaps the most important subject concerning caravans is Water Ingress (Damp). Over time water damage in a caravan can be devastating, as you can read here. The photograph shows what damage can be caused by damp and may make the caravan a write off.
It is VITAL that you are given a written damp report or that you have permission to use a damp meter before you buy.
If permission is refused be very suspicious of the sellers motive. The best solution is to have an independent engineer’s written report because it could save you the cost of the caravan.
One way or another you HAVE to discover if damp or rot is present.
If you take your own damp meter, the readings and their meanings are in the appendix. Vulnerable points of the bodywork are immediately below and around any opening, such as windows, external hatches and the door. Be aware that the black rubber around some windows and doors may be slightly conductive, and so if touched with the probes can give a false ‘damp’ reading. Other weak spots are around any roof fitting such as the skylight(s) and roof vents and also where there is a joint in the bodywork, such as the four corners where panels are joined.
It has been known for sellers to have a caravan that has had water ingress but has then been stored in a sheltered location to dry the damp areas and to try to hide the fact. However, the damage behind the wallboards will already have been done. Wallboards that have been damp will usually feel soft instead of firm and are likely to be uneven. The ultimate test is to press all areas firmly with either a finger or the handle of a screwdriver. If it is pliable when pressed it is probably rotten underneath so it’s time to walk away from that particular caravan. Be suspicious of different patterns or colours of wall covering.
You have to consider that the seller might not be aware of any rotting or dampness so be respectful with your comments however the onus is on YOU to find out. Press the whole of the inside of the caravan wallboards to check for rot behind them. This is especially important when buying a used caravan because seals and joints can loosen over time and possibly allow water ingress.
Does the floor feel spongy? Floor delamination is another possible reason to reject the caravan. Delamination repair is often a relatively cheap DIY operation but probably will require a replacement floor covering (carpet/vinyl) and can take time.
Here is a little advice on caravan construction materials. Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene (ABS) plastic panels are smooth on the back. ABS panels are usually on the front and rear of caravans and are prone to cracking if they are stressed when installed, so allowing water ingress. This Caravan Talk post concerns ABS cracking with additional information here.
Glass Reinforced Plastic (GRP or Fibreglass) panels are rough to the touch on the back and rarely crack however the top ‘gel’ coat can be prone to crazing under stress.
There is another water ingress point or many points in this case. Peel back a small length of the plastic strip in the awning rail until you see a screw. If it is rusty then it’s more than likely all the screws are.
The first thing to check is if your driving licence is valid for towing a caravan of the weight you propose to buy.
If you are over 70 your driving licence needs to be renewed every 3 years. The DVLA should send you a reminder but I am over 70 and have never received one. It is up to you to check the date. Renew your driving licence if you’re 70 or over – GOV.UK. Surprisingly, the whole process is plain sailing and is free.
If you did not pass your driving test before the 1st January 1997, to tow legally you cannot exceed a combined weight of 3500kg. To exceed this limit you must take a separate test to gain entitlement to a category B+E. Click here for specific information. If you have any doubts, just post a question on the Caravan Talk forum in this section and experienced members will advise you.
Does your vehicle have a tow bar? If not, go to a specialist to have one fitted together with the full electrics you will require. Check the plugs and sockets of both the car and caravan match. If they do not, adaptors are available either online or from caravan dealerships and car accessory shops.
The next question to answer is, “What weight can my tow car pull?”
Find the maximum weight from your vehicle owners’ manual then you have an approximate caravan weight you can tow which must include the weight of the essential equipment list as listed later on in this article.
The Maximum Technically Permissible Laden Mass (MTPLM) is similar to the previous term Maximum Gross Weight (MGW) and is the maximum weight that a caravan can be loaded to and therefore operated at. The caravan manufacturer who will have published the maximum safe loading weight calculates this. On caravans with UK specifications, the weight will be on the caravan on a plate usually located near the door. Exceeding this maximum weight could damage the floor of the caravan, tyres or even the axles, making it unsafe to tow.
It pays to know and understand the terminology used. A good dealer will always be willing to help but do not think everything will be explained, so learn some basics first here. A caravan talk member was in doubt so they posted a question here. You can do the same if you need to know more.
Now that you have some idea of the weight your vehicle can safely pull you can go and look for a caravan, can’t you? Well …… No!
There is more to the weight of the caravan than meets the eye. You have to consider what you are going to pack within the caravan that will add to the total weight.
Below is a list of the equipment you will need. These items might be included in the sale. You could ask the seller the price of the caravan without the equipment and then buy the items below from various websites, which can be £400 to £600 less than the new price.
Fresh water carrier
Waste water carrier
12v Leisure Battery (See APPENDIX)
Corner steady winding handle
External water pump (If not already installed onboard)
Electric hook up mains lead
* All gas cylinders have a tare (empty) weight disk on the neck of the bottle showing the weight of the cylinder. For example, the total weight of a 13 kg cylinder is 25 kg – the bottle weighs 12 kg and the gas weighs 13 kg. Butane and propane gas weights differ. More information can be found here.
The above items can weigh up to 160 Kg. not including an awning, clothing and bedding, but you can reduce the weight in the caravan by carrying some of the equipment in the car. See what other caravanners pack click here.
The caravan layout
It is important to choose a caravan that is suitable for you and the most important subject is the layout. There are many layouts to choose from that you can see here.
When choosing a layout you will discover that you have to make compromises. You probably have some idea in your mind of your ideal layout would be but that will be rarely realized due to the allowable total weight of the caravan.
Since we sleep a great deal during our lives consider the bedroom layout. Do you like single beds, double bed and what shape? Think if one of you has to go for a nighttime call of nature, is there an obstacle course to negotiate having to clamber over sleeping beauty? A bed that does not suit your lifestyle or is awkward for you in any way should not be considered. The ideal bed for you might be one where the headboard is against the wall and that you can walk around. They don’t have to be stripped in the morning and made up at night, but these are usually found in the larger size of caravan.
Consider children’s bunk beds, single beds, ease of use, folding or permanent and the number needed.
The next area to address is the bathroom. If you think that you may use it in preference to the facilities on site or if you plan to only use Certificated Sites (CSs) or Certified Locations (CL’s) or other sites that rarely have facilities then an end bathroom becomes more desirable. It is a compact area usually with a shower, wardrobe, drawers and a flushing toilet. The room also provides privacy.
The lounge area can double up as a dinette, and usually has a small foldable table, which is handy for snacks, or a larger folding table for main meals. The seating can be usually converted into two single beds or a double by rearranging the cushions on pull out wooden slats. You can leave the bed made up during the day but then there is no handy mealtime table. One solution is to buy an awning. This is where a table and chairs in an awning are useful, however, if you plan to take trips in the winter then this arrangement may not be ideal. Even if there are only two of you it may be worth considering a four-berth layout that can provide a small table for meals, without the need to utilise the front dinette, so allowing the option of leaving the front bed(s) made up.
The kitchen facilities should be considered carefully. Think of your basic requirements such as a hob, sink, a power point for a low power kettle or toaster and worktops. Is there sufficient storage space for all the cooking equipment and cutlery, and is the fridge large enough for your requirements? Do you need an oven or a microwave?
I hope that I have made you think about the layout, and when you find a caravan with a layout you might consider suitable, spend some time pretending you are on site and go through the motions of using the different areas of the caravan.
Comfort and convenience are very important. I once owned a caravan that when sitting on the loo it was so high that our feet didn’t touch the floor, which made the whole process quite painful. The bed was crammed into a corner and there was hardly any spare surrounding space and was difficult and awkward to make up. We sold the caravan because of these reasons. We bought a caravan with an end washroom, which improved our caravanning experience tenfold.
A Caravan Talk member asked a question on caravan layouts here which is interesting reading.
If you now have some idea of what to look for now is the time to visit a dealer/seller.
Any caravan manufactured after 1992 should have a Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). This number is usually etched into the windows and on the chassis and should be the same as shown on the Central Registration & Identification Scheme (CRiS) documentation, which should confirm that the seller is the owner and has the right to sell and transfer ownership to you. A CRiS Check will provide you with a comprehensive history check on any pre-owned touring caravan. This includes a Hire Purchase Investigation (HPI) check. Phone CRiS on 0203 282 1000 or click here to visit their website.
Take a notebook, pen, camera (or a phone with a camera) with you on your visit to record details and if you find a caravan that you like then write down the VIN number.
If you find a particular model that you like consider paying a holding refundable deposit.
Ask to see any documentation relating to the caravan particularly the owners’ manual. Have it close by when you carry out your inspection so you can see how everything should operate correctly. If the manual is not available, ask why but don’t be surprised if you’re told that the previous owner did not pass it on, as this happens all too often. You may be able to find a manual online or buy one from the caravan manufacturer.
If you are buying privately don’t forget to check the documents to see if the sellers address matches the one on the CRiS documents. If they don’t match then be highly suspicious. The caravan could be stolen and if recovered by the police you won’t get your money back.
Take photographs and particularly take close-ups of the details of the tyre so that you can see the date of manufacture (See here) and then go home and find out as much as you can about the caravan that you might purchase.
On Caravan Talk here under the heading of TOURERS and the caravan manufacturers, post the question, “I am thinking of buying a …….. model. Do any owners have any experience of any faults with this caravan?” Advice on Coachman Pastiche – Coachman Caravans – Caravan Talk and Should We Buy A Hobby? – Hobby Caravans – Caravan Talk are two examples.
Inspection before buying
If you have any friends who are caravanners ask them if they would help with the inspection.
Before returning to the seller, arrange with them to have an External Hook Up (EHU) a gas bottle and a water container connected so that you can check that all the systems are working.
Ask the seller to switch on the fridge and hot water heater prior to your arrival because these require time to reach their operating temperatures.
If buying from a dealer ask if you can borrow a set of stepladders for the roof inspection but beware of the safety implications and understand if the seller refuses.
The inspection tools
Below are items for you to take when going to inspect the caravan are:-
A damp meter. About £15. (There is no need to spend more than that.)
Mains tester (£5 – £8)
Photos: Peter Baker
Multimeter (Also see APPENDIX)
Stepladder for roof inspection? (A dealer may lend you one)
Print attached PDF file (One copy for each caravan you inspect)
Physical inspection - item checks (allow up to 4 hrs)
This checklist is also attached as a PDF file for you to print.
Print copies and keep a record of each caravan you view.
BOLD UNDERLINED indicates items as possible reasons to reject the caravan.
Make & Model of caravan
Start at the tow hitch and then walk around the caravan. Look for holes or dents in the body and areas where DIY work has been carried out. If you can see evidence of this then the work is shoddy and therefore not reliable which could allow water ingress. Notice oddly placed stickers to perhaps cover up screw holes, to hide scuff marks or badly filled dents. Pay particular attention to the roof joints if a front or rear ABS panel is fitted.
Is the mastic brittle or peeling away or has it been applied unprofessionally? Particular attention should be given to these areas.
Check the following:-
 Underseal that might be hiding corrosion or damage on the chassis.
 Push the hitch head towards the caravan. If it requires force that indicates a healthy condition.
 Jockey wheel winds up and down easily and rotates freely.
 Rubber gaiter is not split on the drawbar behind the tow hitch.
 If the tyres & spare are more than 5 years old you should renew them.
 Are tyres cracked or worn? If they are request new ones before purchase.
 Check tyre pressures and wheel nut tightness.
 Does the handbrake lock on?
 Have grease nipples been neglected?
 Spare wheel release mechanism is not rusty or seized up.
 Exterior bodywork for any dents, scratches, blisters, cracks or discolouring.
 Windows for scratches and cracks.
 Inspect the mastic sealant everywhere.
 Opening and shutting mechanism of all external flaps and doors.
 Door locks and any other locks. Are the correct keys are available?
 Wind up and down corner steadies one at a time for ease of operation.
 Gas regulator / front locker fittings.
 External sockets (power / gas) work.
 Check for discoloured wall covering, which may indicate damp
 Is there any wall covering peeling or blistered?
 Press all wallboards for spongy areas. If there are any, reject the caravan.
 Does the floor feel spongy?
 Lights working in all areas?
 Test 13 amp sockets.
 Blinds and fly screens not damaged and sliding easily.
 Scratches on windows.
 Overhead locker doors, cupboard and doors opening / closing okay.
 All blinds and fly screens travel freely and not damaged.
 Windows open and close.
 Window stay screws not loose.
 Test fire alarm and carbon monoxide alarms.
Lounge / Bedroom
 Bed slats present and operating correctly.
 Practice making up the bed.
 Control panel for electrics and pump working.
 Carpet / lino condition.
 TV aerial & inlet.
 Radio working.
 Check age of leisure battery. (Usually located under settee.)
 Holes / damage on work surfaces.
 Fitted waste bin, cutlery drawer insert, wire basket kitchen unit and chopping board.
 Hot and cold water running from the sink tap.
 Sink plug.
 Sink water outlet not blocked.
 Drawers operation.
 Catches on cupboards.
 Hob lighting.
 Oven operation.
 Food racks present?
 Fridge freezer section very cold?
 Fridge light works if fitted.
 Freezer door loose or damaged.
 Fridge door lock operation.
 Does fridge operate on both gas and mains electricity?
 Wire racks condition.
 Any cracked or broken plastic.
 Microwave operating.
 Holes / damage on work surfaces.
 All blinds and fly screens travel freely and not damaged.
 Hot and cold water from the sink tap(s).
 Sink plug.
 Sink water outlet not blocked.
 Drawers operation.
 Cracks in shower tray.
 Peeling mastic.
 Shower door operation. Check for cracks or damage.
 Shower operation.
 Cupboard and wardrobe doors okay.
 Toilet operating.
 Cassette present.
 Heated towel rail operating.
ASK THE SELLER
If you are buying a used caravan it might not be in perfect condition or maintained to the highest standard so the checklist and photographs can be invaluable when you are negotiating a price with the seller.
Now that your inspection is complete ask the seller the following questions:-
Is there a written damp report?
 YES  NO
Is a caravan entry step included?
 YES  NO
Water container supplied?
 YES  NO
Is water pump included?
 YES  NO
Waste water container supplied?
 YES  NO
Gas bottle included in the sale?
 YES  NO
Is there a spare wheel? (If none request that one is supplied.)
 YES  NO
Is the steadies winder tool included?
 YES  NO
If the caravan wheels are alloy & the spare is steel, check that you have the correct studs.
 YES  NO
Is a leisure battery supplied?
 YES  NO
If the battery is lead acid is it vented to the outside?
 YES  NO
Is a mover included? If there is, check that seller has the instructions.
 YES  NO
Any servicing documents?
 YES  NO
Does the seller have any additional paperwork?
 YES  NO
Check that the maker’s manual is included, if not the seller should supply one.
 YES  NO
Is there a spare set of keys included?
 YES  NO
Any wheel security devices supplied?
 YES  NO
Is the hook up lead supplied?
 YES  NO
Can seller supply and fit number plate?
 YES  NO
If the Carbon monoxide and fire alarms are not present will the seller provide and fit them?
 YES  NO
Depending upon the answers to the questions above, now is the time to go outside for a walk and think what price you are going to offer the seller for the caravan.
Just when you thought it was all over
If you are a first-time buyer and after you have paid for your caravan it is advisable, with the help of the seller, to hook up. Ideally, your helper could video the whole procedure as a reminder of how this is done.
Have the seller show you:-
The motor mover in operation.
How to connect the tow hitch to the tow ball.
How to operate the stabilizer.
How to connect the electrics.
Check all lights/indicators for correct operation.
With the engine running above tick over speed how to set the fridge on 12v operation.
Make sure you know about the operation of the stabilizer. Once the hitch is on the towball, raise the jockey wheel and tighten the clamp securely. Place the handbrake lever as near horizontal as it can be. Lastly, have a look underneath the caravan to see if everything is clear.
Once hooked up the caravan should be level. If the caravan is markedly nose down then you must check the nose weight, and if the caravan nose is too high then you might need a ‘drop plate’ on your towbar. Ask the seller for advice if need be.
The last of the weights
For peace of mind and to make sure the caravan is within its maximum plated weight it is advisable to use a weighbridge. You need to know the weight of the caravan when fully packed and the total weight of the towing vehicle and the caravan to ensure you are within legal limits. You can find out where your nearest weighbridge is here.
DAMP METER READINGS
0 – 15 %
No cause for concern.
15 – 20 %
Make a note of these readings and re-check after six months.
20 – 24 %
Possible early signs of water ingress.
25 – 30 %
Damp evident. Remedial work is required.
31% & above
Structural damage is occurring.
A full strip down of the affected area is required.
I personally recommend a Protec cover which fits snugly around the caravan and a tow hitch. An A frame cover is included. Their covers are waterproof and are breathable and are tailored to your model of caravan. There is a Velcro opening that corresponds to the caravan door making them ideal for easy access. Webbed straps are supplied to go under the caravan to firmly secure the cover. Protec covers are supplied with extendable poles to aid covering and removal of the cover.
The advantages of a cover
A cover disguises the caravan and since thieves are in a hurry they might not bother with checking your caravan to see if it suits their purpose.
If the caravan is on your driveway a green cover is more pleasing to the eye than other colours.
At the end of each season, washing, polishing and covering the caravan means that when the new caravanning season starts you have a clean caravan ready to go, whereas not covering the caravan over winter will find a dirt grimed caravan, a stained roof of bird droppings, pollution and leaf mould which makes washing and polishing even more time consuming and difficult.
Another peril facing a caravan without a cover over winter is ice. As we all know, water expands in size when frozen. There are parts on a caravan that hold water and when this freezes it can force seams, window rubbers and mastic away from the bodywork over time, causing damage, which is expensive to repair.
The disadvantages of a cover
- The initial cost can be expensive.
- The bother of removing and replacing it.
- Cheap covers can cause abrasion to the caravan paintwork and windows.
If your caravan or trailer is wider than the rear of the towing vehicle there is a legal requirement to fit suitable towing mirrors. These mirrors are usually ‘E-marked’ (mirrors with this mark meet EU requirements). If you’re towing blind (without towing mirrors or using unsuitable mirrors) you can be:-
- Prosecuted by the police.
- Fined up to £1,000.
- Given three points on your licence.
The photograph below shows a correctly adjusted towing mirror that allows the driver to see the illegal blind area indicated in the diagram above.
Towing mirrors do have another advantage when manoeuvring onto a pitch. They allow you to see hand signals given by your navigator, but just remind them that if they can’t see the driving mirrors, then you won’t be able to see them.
For some outfits, the caravan wheel(s) on the inside of a turn may not always be visible in the towing mirror during tight turns. To overcome this if the standard mirrors are not obstructed by the towing mirror mount, some caravanners like to adjust them down to see the caravan wheel(s) during this manoeuvre.
Mastic is the first line of defence against water ingress and if it is not in good condition then walk away from the caravan.
I am aware of the difficulties on inspecting roof but it is a necessary part of the inspection. The photographs below show poor mastic and ABS roof cracking which cannot be seen from ground level.
This mastic condition and crack effectively wrote off the caravan after a relatively short period.
Accepting a caravan with mastic in the above condition is asking for trouble.
THE LEISURE BATTERY & MULTIMETER
I am including some information on the leisure battery because I include it as a caravan’s necessary equipment.
To discover the state of charge in a leisure battery you will need a multimeter as below. (About £5 – £12)
Many caravan inbuilt ‘chargers’ do not actually charge the battery, they only trickle charge the battery, which is different from full charging. Trickle charging batteries will shorten the life and reduce performance over time. ‘Smart’ chargers will charge a battery fully, and keep it in optimum condition and increase the lifespan of the battery. All C-Tek chargers, for example, are ‘smart’ and can be connected and switched on throughout the year.
You need to know the voltage only to discover the state of charge of the battery. The readings below are approximate. Remove one battery terminal and read the multimeter voltage from both battery terminals.
12.7 V or above
12.7 V or below
11 V or below
As an adage, if you want to know whether the car charging circuit to the leisure battery is working correctly, read the leisure battery voltage without the caravan connected to the tow car. Then connect the caravan to the tow car and with the engine running at above tick over speed take another reading. If there is no change there is a fault with the charging circuit.
PRE TOWING CHECKLIST
I have learnt from experience that having a pre-towing checklist is a necessity. My checklist is shown below as an example. I covered it with clear Fablon and have it stuck on the fridge side near the door and my OH reads it out while I check.
- DRAIN LOO FLUSH TANK
- FRIDGE – SWITCH TO BATTERY.
- FRIDGE DOOR LOCKED.
- RADIO PANEL OUT
- SMALL CABINET LOCKS ON
- WATER HEATING SWITCHES OFF.
- CLOSE LOO FLAP.
- LAY SHOWER HEAD ON FLOOR.
- CLOSE ROOF VENTS.
- ROOM HEATING OFF.
- WATER COCKS OPEN.
- CLOSE ALL WINDOWS.
- BATHROOM CABINET SAFETY LOCK.
- GRILL PAN PACKED.
- TV PACKED.
- WATER SWITCH OFF.
- MAIN PANEL SWITCH TO CAR
- DRAIN LOO.
- GAS TURNED OFF.
- HEATER COWL FITTED.
- CHECK ALL EXT. LOCKERS.
- FIT CAR WING MIRRORS
- DISENGAGE MOTOR MOVER
- TEST ALL ROAD LIGHTS
- CHECK TYRE PRESSURES
- FRIDGE SWITCH TO MAINS
- REMOVE COWLING
- CLOSE WATER DRAIN COCK
- CHARGER TO INTERNAL
After some experience, you can make up your own list of pre-towing checks.
I know that following the attached PDF checklist is both irksome and time-consuming but will ensure that the caravan you buy will be likely to provide years of pleasurable and trouble-free caravanning.
There is an index on Caravan Talk, which has links to subjects that covers all aspects of caravanning. Click the following link. Caravan Talk Quick Find Index – Caravan Chat – Caravan Talk
Before I finish, have a browse at Caravan Top Tips – Top Tips – Caravan Talk which is full of goods ideas to make your caravanning life smoother.
I hope you have found this guide helpful and informative and if there is any further information or help regarding all aspects of caravanning post a question on the Caravan Talk Forum.
Compiled & written by BOAC for Caravan Talk
My thanks to Gordon Perry for his advice throughout for assistance in compiling this article.
The small print
Your use of any information in this guide is entirely at your own risk. It is your own responsibility to ensure that any products, services or information available via this index meet your requirements. Be aware that this guide includes links to other websites over which Caravan Talk has no control.
© Peter Baker & Caravan Talk