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Pitching Up ? Level Or Not?


Ondaroadagain
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I am very surprised that you resolved the problem of lighting the fridge on gas by side to side levelling. This would seem to indicate an extraordinary list to take the gas flame and the piezo spark into different planes to cause non ignition of the flame.

 

The majority of fridges, if not all, are fitted to the side wall of the caravan where it is important that the fore to aft levelling is within only a couple of degrees from horizontal to ensure that the coolant in the coils flows correctly. Whilst this ensures that the cooling effect works correctly it does nothing in regard to the difficulty of lighting the gas flame.

 

This was google led, so can't be that unusual. The theory is that the flame was just missing the thermocouple. ..

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This was google led, so can't be that unusual. The theory is that the flame was just missing the thermocouple. ..

Thanks. I understand the theory that is why I suggested that there must have been quite a list to port or starboard.

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Thanks. I understand the theory that is why I suggested that there must have been quite a list to port or starboard.

 

I would not have said it was level (it was a bumpy grass field. ..), but it was not a massive ship type list either. ...

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I would not have said it was level (it was a bumpy grass field. ..), but it was not a massive ship type list either. ...

Clearly sufficient to cause the flame miss the thermocouple. It is an effect I have never experienced as I habitually level my caravan when pitching. This is to ensure that the cooking oil in a frying pan on the hob remains in the centre of the pan, no-one falls out of bed or rolls over onto another occupant, the waste water drains properly - and now to ensure that the gas jet on the fridge is aligned with the thermocouple. :rolleyes: One learns something every day. ;)

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Level on Site, slight tilt at home and on storage site

 

Les

Les

 

 

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As a newbie I have a simple question regarding the use of levelling ramps. Do you go forward onto the ramp or backwards onto the ramp? Up to now I have only gone forward onto the ramp using the mover, but find that the van rolls off down the ramp even with the handbrake on and the mover still engaged. (The brakes have been adjusted by a proper van service centre)

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As a newbie I have a simple question regarding the use of levelling ramps. Do you go forward onto the ramp or backwards onto the ramp? Up to now I have only gone forward onto the ramp using the mover, but find that the van rolls off down the ramp even with the handbrake on and the mover still engaged. (The brakes have been adjusted by a proper van service centre)

One of the reasons I don't use ramps, I use short planks of wood, adding extra planks until the van is level.

2015 SorentoKX2 pulling a 2011 Sterling Eccles Moonstone

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As a newbie I have a simple question regarding the use of levelling ramps. Do you go forward onto the ramp or backwards onto the ramp? Up to now I have only gone forward onto the ramp using the mover, but find that the van rolls off down the ramp even with the handbrake on and the mover still engaged. (The brakes have been adjusted by a proper van service centre)

 

If on a fwd/backwd slope we would always go down hill up the ramp - if that makes sense - then it's less effort for the mover. Then when the caravan is level we stick a chock under the wheel on the ramp, then put the hand break on. Then a chock under the other wheel. Our mover is in front of the wheels so if there isn't a slope (fwd/backwd) we would go backwards up the ramp, again using a chock to stop it rolling down the ramp. We use a Milenco Quattro ramp which has masses of grip and makes life very easy !

Edited by Shirl250

2007 Bailey Series 5 Senator Arizona (4 berth, rear bathroom, side dinette) towed by a 57 Kia Sorento XS Auto with Kumho KL17 tyres, Reich Mover, Kampa Rally 390, Caravan Tyres : GT Radial Maxmiler CX 185/80 R14 102R.

 

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As a newbie I have a simple question regarding the use of levelling ramps. Do you go forward onto the ramp or backwards onto the ramp? Up to now I have only gone forward onto the ramp using the mover, but find that the van rolls off down the ramp even with the handbrake on and the mover still engaged. (The brakes have been adjusted by a proper van service centre)

 

 

You either need to chock the caravan on the ramp (which means a two person job) or drive onto a level surface, like planks, as Steve says. There are ramps with locking chocks (we have some, which work ok) and some which have multiple level sections (i. e. ramp -> level -> ramp -> level).

 

I think the advantage of the ramps is that there is potentially less shunting backwards and forwards if you aren't great at estimating exactly how many planks you need, but on the other hand they will be less adjustable than multiple small planks. The planks can be relatively heavy too.

 

A third option is to jack the caravan once you have it where you want it (and it is secured) and slide the planks under.

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I pull the caravan up the ramp with the car and my wife watches the level that's on the floor by the door, when its ok she gives a waves.

She then pops the block that came with the ramp behind the wheel, I uncouple and level front to back with the jockey wheel.

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Paul B

. .......Mondeo Estate & Elddis Avanté 505 (Tobago)

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I'm new to this, but I noticed that water was slow draining from sink and shower tray water was building up away from outlet, I lower rear legs, all water drained, but I've only used the van twice and same Caravan site Trossachs Holiday Park Aberfoyle, which has solid bays and the staff site van on pitch, which is heaven sent help. But I'm learning as I go along, and I'm loving it, though I have a 8 berth on site at Wemyss Bay, I think I'm now enjoying the adventure of towing.

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If only slightly sloping across the axle on a gravel pitch, I just reverse a bit further, then scrape some gravel out in front of the " high " wheel. Dead simple, takes a minute or so & very easy to smooth over on leaving the pitch. If it's a grass pitch I employ the motor mover & always reverse the van up the ramp & secure both wheels with plastic chocks.

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Les.
2. 0ltr 150TDCi TITANIUM X KUGA + 2016 Elddis Crusader Mistral ( Misty )

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As 'bopeep'found we don't like to sleep head lower than feet in our fixed bed so it's slightly nose down on site. Side to side levelling is done with a selection of decking planks. By looking at where the bubble is in the leveller I can guess how many planks will be required. Even though we like the side to side level to be pretty accurate, the sink and shower drain well if slightly off which is surprising seeing that with the van slightly nose down the sink waste has to run up slightly. At home the van is on the drive that slopes down so the van stands nose down.

2004 Citroen C5 2. 0ltr diesel auto VTR and 2011 Bailey Orion 430/4

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On a site in France this year we watched a Dutchman dig a hole in the gound and roll his van into it to level it. You cannot get cheaper than that.

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We tend to go for slightly nose down as it means the toilet door will stay closed on it's own when empty! This last couple of nights we were slightly more down than usual owing to the pitch we were on, but the fridge worked fine

My mind not only wanders, sometimes it leaves completely

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I spent an hour or so on my pitch at home levelling the van with a builders 2 meter spirit level. I then adjusted slightly for drainage in the sink etc and a slight nose down angle for sleeping. Then I stuck a two-way level in the front window and shimmed it to read level.

 

So now I just look in the window and use the 2 way knowing that when it shows level, it's as we lke it and everything drains.

:-)

 

I use ramps and my mover on grass or concrete, or scrape the gravel away on those type pitches.

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  • 11 months later...

I try it with a Bottle of Brandy.(don't like wine) Every time i think its level i will go in the van and check the bottle. Have a quick sip and go back out to alter the setting. After a short while I just get under the van and go to sleep sod it . ...

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